Next to Last Month / Orlando Luis Pardo Lazo

Have you ever wondered why all the windows in Heaven were broken? Does anyone know if this wandering Earth will be found? Where the night is long. Where oblivion doesn’t hurt. And the digital tic toc of dawn. And the date, odd. Day 29, month 11, me 1.

It begins to snow in the secret heart of Europe. Celestial milk, snowflakes from God, wheat without more meaning than its physical characteristics, hyperreal. We are alive, now. It will be distressing to not be so later. Heaven and Hell are two enormous punishments for those that have been born on Earth and love their counterparts in History,

I don’t want to share anything with millions of souls pure or putrefied. I want the bodies that I loved. I want the conversations that I could and could not translate with our poor language, so silent, so Cuban. I want the brilliance of corneas, not an aura of salvation. I want the touch of fingertips. I will everyone, a lot. I will miss you a lot. It’s perfect.

Everything is late. Everything happens yesterday. We don’t know how to live in the present. This is also perfect.

It’s an explosion. Life is less than a dream, but much more intense for that same reason: life might be the ephemeral instant in which it seems we are either exhausted or ready to wake up. Then, in our sleep or in our wakefulness, life is what happened to you while you are busy doing other things.

We are in the second to last day of the second to last month and this is the second to last line, even though it is only for imitation.

I have a lot more to add but now I realize how perfect it would be to know how to shut it all up once more.

November 29 2012

Sadistic, Extravagant and Kleptomaniac: General Gondin / Juan Juan Almeida #Cuba

CarlosFernandezGondinJuan Juan Almeida, 16 Dec 2012 — When being “Papá’s boy” I decided to break out of my bubble, I knew I would face criticisms and threats. But I never imagined that the wicked and fearful smile of Carlos Fernandez Gondin while I was cruelly expelled from the funeral of my father on the orders of General Raul Castro, would remain in my memory as eternal scar. I wished I had died that day.

Today I want to write about his sons for whom, more than medication, I recommend an exorcism. It has not been easy for them to have a father who is believed to be a popular hero and is just a bunch of medals. It’s a pleasure to color the image of the occasional smiling General Gondin, with guidelines more than stories, whom they called “The Fairy Godmother” because he loves to make numbers out of names and turn people into a national security issue.

Despite his small stature, grotesque manners, and hideous countenance, General Gondin Fernandez is a man detached and extravagant, especially with what is not his. Let’s say that like Farouk, the last Egyptian monarch, the soldier referred so inclines to the promiscuous, is extravagant and a kleptomaniac.

Thoroughness is his virtue. Spying for Raul, and sharing the love of vodka, he became head of the Military Counterintelligence, a member of the Central Committee of the Communist Party of Cuba, Division General, First Vice Minister of the Interior, and with the arrival of Raúl to the presidency of the Republic of Cuba, the cloying Gondin thought to occupy the throne of his Ministry.

But no, the theories are flawed and even the Roman Empire lasted four centuries longer than expected. With the entry onto the scene of Alejandro Castro Espin as Colonel Coordinator of the activities of his father, and the total subordination MININT to Vice Admiral Julio Cesar Gandarilla Bermejo, Head of the Directorate of Military Counterintelligence, the only sailor who can not swim; exacerbating the fears of Gondin who, feeling displaced, dedicates himself to mining in silence the old wall of loyalty.

There is nothing more frustrating for a climber than to feel he is a spectator. But his life continues to be a sort of ossuary. He is shy, intense, unusual and almost mute; severe prudent, unscrupulous, sadistic and not the least starry-eyed. Despite all his glory, and although enjoying the benefits of selling fake battles, he appears paranoid and insecure. Maybe because of this he visits the empyrean realm of divination with a gentleman of Havana. Miramar, to be exact.

Hungry for power, he knows exactly where to run in panic situations. With his arrogant appearance, and his ridiculous outfit, he loves hunting, fishing, and is steadfast to the allegory of terror. Some say Gondin is a good man, who did not reach tenth grade, and doesn’t know the article of the Declaration of Independence that says “When a government becomes a danger to its own ends, it is the right of the people to abolish it.”

“Commander in chief, at your orders” has been his motto in life. But his work — by his own comments — is reduced to inventing the impending accident, one that also seems fortuitous, such as making one of the beautiful granddaughters of the chief slip and fall into the bed occupied by the gentleman lawyer, President Rafael Correa, during one of his visits to Havana. We must not think evil, that’s not pimping, hustling, nor even a foreign siege, it is a coldly calculated attempt to change the geopolitical division of the region.

December 16 2012

Champions Who Die While Living / Luis Felipe Rojas #Cuba

ImagenLate last night I learned of the death of Arnaldo Mesa, a former boxer from Holguín province who shone back in the 1980s. The digital Diario de Cuba (Cuba Daily) carried the report and it hit me in the face like a rock. Along with Ángel Espinosa, Manuel Martinez and Ricardo Diaz they formed a fearsome foursome in places where the Cuban amateur boxing showed off their best.

Mesa was technical, aggressive and quick, and he had the punch that everybody avoided. In an edition of the former World Cup, the three (with Espinosa and Martinez) won gold medals for the country and received in exchange for an apartment or the fixing of their homes, nothing more. That and the lack of discipline, the disincentives and precariousness of life in the provinces led to misery. Years later two others emerged: Mario (Mayito) Kindelan, who dazzled the world with speed and Gerardo Doroncelé, who shone with a lesser brightness in the national pre-selection.

Espinosa could be seen until recently in any “kennel” (beer-on-tap stands)fighting to quench his thirst and frustration. Before leaving Cuba I ran into my former neighbor, Manuel Martinez Crespo, jovial, quiet, almost shy boy, but now surrendered to the struggle for looking for a life and for a chance to be able to visit his daughters, living outside the country.

Mesa could be seen until recently outside the Calixto Garcia baseball stadium, looking for alcohol, women, or for the first business available to start the day.Some time ago, Ricardito Diaz drove a Soviet make car (a Moscovich) that he rented out to tourist to drive to any point of the province, but he keeps smiling, surly, also a bit stuck on alcohol,watching the shadows of hisvictories fade away.

Years ago we saw an excellent documentary, Forgotten Glories, by Manuel Benito del Valle and Darsy Ferrer about several Olympic and world medalists who died or are still living in poverty on the island. Far from the applause, medals and awards given at the hands of Fidel Castro himself, Angel Herrera and Sixto Soria, just to mention two, wear the fate of any athlete retired to the provincial life.

Before this reality stands the counterpart of those who remained outside Cuba, or those still inside who took the road of missions of sports collaboration as coaches, officials and technical staff who prepare athletes on some other continent. Mesa’s case is one among many, it’s enough to look around any city to see this glory who was now reselling sundries, renting their car from twenty years ago or crouched, waiting for the opportunity pick up the first coin of the day.

December 18 2012

The Effect on My Life of the Death of Oswaldo Paya / Mario Lleonart

opindexThe sacrifice of the precious life of Oswaldo Jose Paya Sardinas and of so many other martyrs that have preceded him in this type of targeted assassination, far from terrorizing me, stimulates me to continue forward in my ministry which cannot exclude the condemnation of this despotic regime.

When I said goodbye to my friend Juan Wilfredo Soto Garcia, beaten to death in May 2011, I was already asking who would be the next victim in one of the posts that I then wrote, and we have buried after him Laura Pollan (October 2011), Wilman Villar Mendoza (January 2012) and now Paya (July 2012).

I am heir to an uncountable multitude of martyrs who preferred dying over refusing to preach or live the liberating faith of Jesus Christ, the same faith that motivated the life and work of the irreplaceable author of Project Varela.  In this sense, as a follower of a Jesus who gave me an example by not shunning the cross, and who asks us to follow him also carrying ours, I do mine, as also Paya did his, his own responding words before the death threats sent by Herod:

And he said unto them, Go ye, and tell that fox, Behold, I cast out devils, and I do cures to day and to morrow, and the third day I shall be perfected. Nevertheless I must walk to day, and to morrow, and the day following: for it cannot be that a prophet perish out of Jerusalem. O Jerusalem, Jerusalem, which killest the prophets. (Luke 13.32-34, KJV)

But throughout history what tyrannies never seem to learn is what Paya himself had already noticed about tyrants:  Be careful with those you kill, they might spur the people’s yearning for liberty.

Translated by mlk

November 21 2012

The Guayabero / Ignacio Estrada #Cuba

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Havana, Cuba – A genuine artist departed the far east on March 27, 2007. Not exactly the east where he was born, but that to which people flock to the presence of the supreme architect of humanity. For Cubans, this date would mark the death of all who knew him as “The Guayabero”.

Faustino Oramas began in the sextet The Tropical at an early age, say some he was fifteen when he wrote his most famous composition, that gave this troubadour his nickname, “The Guayabero”.

For over seven decades this artist toured the world, appearing on different stages. Teaching the art of genuine double tune, artistic work that distinguished him among the singers of all time. This genuine musician from Holguin knew how to pick the best of traditional Cuban music and give it rhythmic beats and add his usual mischief to improvisations.

His musical work made great contributions to the rescue of our musical roots and our troubadour tradition and was an unparalleled contribution to the musical mood.

The Guayabero even still is walking the streets of a city where he was born, carrying his guitar and Cuba, like the rest of the world, feels his presence every time we hear one of his compositions.

November 19 2012

The War of the Worlds / Regina Coyula #Cuba

guerra-mundosFree enterprise is not a term that is mentioned in the new process of “updating the model,” but you just have to give a little nodto “the factors” in constructing your own socialism now that the Frankenstein of socialism, which according to them is being built in Cuba, seems to be delayed. There are some new entrepreneurs who are serious.

A 3-dimension cinema has appeared, with prices that seem would attract no customers, but they do; a city of two million inhabitants has several hundred happy citizens who don’t have to count their pennies at the end of the month.

Asking for directions to a friend’s, they pointed to a door at the end of a pleasant terrace equipped as a tapas bar. Going through that door was like entering a parallel world. The place is equipped with the best, down to the slightest detail, the menu and the bill are presented on an iPad. In fact, when the iPad gets to the cash register it has to be transcribed because the technology doesn’t go that far, but the effect on the customer is devastating.

A popular snackbar made stickers for cars, and those who return with the sticker on the windshield received a discount. The stickers, I was told, were ordered withdrawn because private businesses are not allowed to advertise. On their own, or with the knowledge of what had happened to the snack bar, some clever person got a bullhorn and advertised from a vintage car, an impeccable almendrón. What did they advertise? Movie showings in 3D with a matinée of children’s films at a reduced rate. So there’s competition for the guys with the iPad.

Until now inventiveness, “the struggle” has been banned. This is the real parallel world.

December 17 2012

Another December 10th / Rafael Leon Rodriguez #Cuba

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Image from bienvepaz.wordpress.com

Yesterday we commemorated the 64th anniversary of the signing of the Charter of Human Rights by the United Nations of that time, in the creation of which there was an outstanding Cuban representation.

The authoritarian authorities of our country, who already for more than half a century have appropriated and pretend that it really belongs to them, have set aside, according to their own interests, the importance of this date, accepting now a discreet approach from the media and organizations controlled by the regime at the celebration of the event.

On the other hand, they have undertaken coercive and punitive measures they think are necessary to prevent an independent civil society, the political and peaceful opposition and whoever opposes them from publicly demonstrating that day, because they know like the violators they are,that civil society not only will celebrate the date, but will demand the recognition and implementation of these violated rights of the Cuban people.

Arbitrary arrests, demonstrations of rapid response paramilitary groups, public parks occupied by government activists, the phones of people related to the opposition have been cut off, police visits to the homes of opponents with the intention of intimidating them, are some of the measures implemented by the repressive police organizations to discourage and prevent these citizen actions.

Meanwhile, the working committees of the National Assembly is meeting on the eve of the great and last annual day of this 2012. The attempts to create an economy the works, that is sustainable, while at the same time ensuring the dynastic succession and perks seems nothing more than to progress towards discouragement, corruption and vested interests of the government bureaucracy. In addition they remain silent on changes that need to be made in the field of human rights that are based on the ratification and implementation of the Covenants on Civil and Political rights and on Economic, Social and Cultural Rights of the United Nations.

The need to realize real social and political changes is more than obvious if we really aspire to retain a sovereign independent Nation in the near future for all Cubans. This necessarily should include firm respect for diversity and plurality of the citizenry, and from it, project the imperative and urgent National Rule of Law, endorsed by a new and plural Constitution of the Republic of Cuba.

Human rights belong to everyone and each one is like an indivisible beam and only with this can the Cuban nation be reborn in the true virtue and the necessary hope for the future of the country of all.

December 17 2012

Two Outdated Terms / Fernando Damaso #Cuba

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While I was having a conversation with the poet Rafael Alcides on “the human and the divine,” something we do regularly, he reminded me that the terms right and left, as applied to different political positions, appeared in Cuba at the beginning of the 1920s as a reaction to the Russian revolution of 1917. Never before in our history had they been used, having been preceded by annexationism, reformism, autonomism, independentism and, after the establishment of the Republic in 1902, by liberalism and conservatism. At the end of that period, the 1920s, they carried a certain weight, and their use reached a climax with the fall of the regime of Gerardo Machado in 1933 and in subsequent years with the legalization of the Communist Party, rechristened the Socialist People’s Party to make it more palatable to the masses.

These terms were only used, however, by communists in their propaganda, referring to themselves as being of “the left” and generalizing all their opponents as being of “the right.” In reality it was a minority party, one whose orthodox true believers led the way in the national political arena. The change came about in 1959, “the year of the accident,” when the state was proclaimed to be “leftist” and imposed its political, ideological and economic concepts on all of society. Subsequently, it tried to portray the left as the sum of all that was progressive, new, humane and good, and the right as the sum of all that was archaic, obsolete, brutal and bad. But life, that supreme judge, showed that neither left nor right were what they proclaimed themselves to be. The former showed itself to be a fraud, becoming fossilized, and the latter, reinventing itself over time, consolidated.

To speak of left and right in today’s globalized world is very anachronistic, a topic suitable for dilettantes, now that both have been bypassed by history. The terms have become so intermingled that any differences are discernible only in their extreme forms. Those who support democracy, development, and solutions to political, economic, social and environmental problems are “progressive,” while those who cling to totalitarianism, lack of freedom, backwardness and stagnation are “retrograde.” Trying to maintain this dichotomy of left and right at all costs, taking advantage of their historic meanings and even trying to inject new life into them, is a task doomed to failure.

December 16 2012

Self-employed Christmases / Yoani Sanchez #Cuba

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Tiny plastic trees peek out here and there, with garlands saved from other years and a wire star at the top. Superb conifers with every little detail, placed in the lobby of some grand hotel or in the living rooms of residences in Miramar. Lights, colors, melodies that play over and over without end. On a street in Nuevo Vedado neighbors compete to see who can most-strikingly decorate their balcony railings or garden hedges. But there is also house after house, thousands of them, without a single detail relating to this December holiday. Perhaps because of atheism, or for lack of resources, or simply apathy towards the celebration.”Celebrate what?” many would say if asked.

This Christmas self-employed workers have made the year-end festivities their own. In the food stalls, the tiny rooms where trinkets are sold, and the private restaurants in Havana, there is a determination to decorate the spaces with images of Santa Claus, glass balls and twinkling lights. An explosion of colors and carols in the private service sector marks a big difference from the State-run counterpart. As if the excess of details and ornamentation were another way to distance themselves from the depersonalization of the many sites run by ministries and institutions. These visual excesses of today are very likely the popular response to all those Christmas eves celebrated in whispers, or totally ignored, in which a tree with a nativity scene constituted evidence of “ideological deviation.”

They also bring to mind a circular, today attributed to Vice President Jose Ramon Machado Ventura, banning Christmas trees in public places. A failed attempt to continue to regulate the way in which we say goodbye to the old year, one which, fortunately, could not be sustained for long. Those excesses of proscriptions and false austerity have led to the current exuberance. Many want the image of the Virgin and child in their living rooms, even if they don’t know whether to put hay or snow at the foot of the manger. On all sides there are bright red flowers, blinking lights, and plump faces topped by pointy hats. So many Decembers between the swings of “no we can’t” or “yes we can” have nurtured this Christmas frenzy. Now few want to leave the garlands safe in their boxes, or the five pointed stars in the back of some drawer.

17 December 2012

Convalescence and Gratitude / Miriam Celaya #Cuba

My readers must forgive this long and abrupt absence. After so much talk about the Cuban health system, I ended up getting sick. Luckily, it was not cholera or dengue fever, but I just had the most aggressive flu that I can ever remember, and it kept me home for many days without even having a chance to play with the computer keyboard, since I had an acute case of conjunctivitis as a complication. Not for nothing, but they “threw everything at me”, but they haven’t been able to do away with me… at least for now.

Although a lot has happened during these days and, of course, there are many things to comment on, today I just want to announce that I’m back and to thank everyone for the many e-mail messages, asking about my health. I also would like to take this opportunity to extend my deepest appreciation to everyone who, all through this long and difficult 2012, have shown their solidarity in the most diverse ways. You have really helped me, and the medications that you sent me on occasion came in handy on this critical juncture. I also want to thank you for your PayPal donations that allowed me to buy internet connection time in Havana hotels when I can’t get on line through more friendly venues; the numerous times you have made possible my cell phone recharges, which allow for immediate communication with my “fellow travelers” and protect me against any potential adverse circumstance with the boys of the repressive forces; text messages that quickly inform me from the outside about events not published in the press within Cuba, and finally, all the words of encouragement that inspire me to return to this blog to meet with you in the ongoing effort to push down the wall together.

Without you, I’m sure the road would be a thousand times harsher. Thank you with all my heart. We will, once again, meet here next week.

Translated by Norma Whiting

December 14 2012

Tin Can Cars / Wendy Iriepa and Ignacio Estrada #Cuba

Havana, Cuba. The recently opened International Art Fair in Havana captures the attention of the people of the capital and foreigners. Shelves crammed with the artwork of artists from Cuba and other latitudes are enjoyed by visitors who leave satisfied having seen trash creatively reused.

One of the artists of this show is the Cuban Irenardo Fidel Córdova Pérez who distinguishes himself by his artistic work to convert recyclable materials into works of art. For the last fifteen years Irenardo has given to those who visit the island a miniature world of the old cars that often can be seen only in museums or on an island like ours.

I do not know the ambitions and projects of this Cuban artist who dedicates to his work only the hours he isn’t working as an employee of the Palace of Conventions in Havana, I just know it is a pleasure wheneverhe  returns to the streets of Cuba one of those miniatures that he builds.

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December 10 2012

Stalking the Stalkers / Rebeca Monzo #Cuba

Since the arrests which grew out of a tragic event—the premature deaths of Oswaldo Payá and Harold Cepero—it has increased. Especially the stalking near the house of Antonio Rodiles, headquarters of State of SATS.* This time they were not content to hinder access to the residence. They also arrested people who, affirming their rights as citizens,insisted on being allowed to go there. After being prohibited by authorities from continuing on, two of the more impetuous young men decided to go along the shoreline. Rodiles’ house sits by the sea and only a big chain link fence, rusted by time, separates it from the ocean.

Some people were already inside, either because they arrived before the operation had begun, or because they passed unnoticed through the police cordon. They were suddenly startled by the sight of these two men—completely dressed but soaked—who climbed over the fence, trying to enter the premises. At first everyone thought the police operation was being carried out by sea, but they immediately recognized the two young men and let them in. The host loaned them some of his clothes so they could dry off, change and join the meeting.

With this and recent events very much on everyone’s mind, we were afraid we would be confronting a similar situation on Friday, September 7. We were to meet at the house of Yoani Sánchez for the release of the sixteenth issue of the digital magazine Voces, which is dedicated exclusively to the memory of Payá,who, along with Cepero, lost his life in a very controversial automobile accident.**

Many of us were mentally prepared for a “political stalking.” But when we arrived, everything nearby seemed normal. Even those “shady types,” the sight of whom has become routine for us, did not seem to be around. I am sure they were there, but were keeping a low profile.

When my husband and I arrived, there was already a group of people in the apartment. The living/dining room had been converted into a makeshift cinema. They were about to show a short film of the eulogy and internment of Payá, as well as images of masses said in his memory at the church in his neighborhood, where he was much loved and admired. Before the film began, Reinaldo Escobar read a brief but emotional message from the wife of the deceased, apologizing for not being able to attend.

Later, the journalist and blogger Orlando Luís Pardo Lardo, as is customary, presented the latest issue of Voces. Finally, some sample copies, courtesy of a collaboration among friends, were handed out to those in attendance.The children who were present provided a happy note that helped dispel the sense of nostalgia that was the prevailing mood of this gathering. Everything was very pleasant, but in an instant this cozy atmosphere was interrupted by an unexpected and unpleasant visit.

* Translator’s notes:

According to its website, State of SATS “hopes to create a plural space for participation and debate, where open and frank debate is exchanged. The project sponsors panel discussions, forums and other events that are filmed and broadcasted on the Internet.”

**On July 22, prominent Cuban pro-democracy leader Oswaldo Paya and activist Harold Cepero were killed in a car accident while on a trip to the east of Cuba. Many Cuban dissidents suspect foul play may have been involved. Paya’s daughter has declared in an audio clip that a second car provoked the crash.

Site manager’s note: Somehow this post never appeared, despite having been translated in September. Apologies for the delay.

September 8 2012

2012 Solidarity Prize / Ignacio Estrada #Cuba

Havana, Cuba. 10 December 2012. By Ignacio Estrada Cepero.

By agreement the National Executive of the Cuban League Against AIDS, at a meeting held on Saturday 24 November, decided to award its 2012 Annual Solidarity Prize to the Cuban Commission for Human Rights and National Reconciliation led by the attorney Elizardo Sánchez Santa Cruz.

The award recognizes the excellent work carried out by the team of Human Rights observers within Cuba in support not only of the Cuban community that lives with this disease, but of all sectors of society. For this they have been honored with this award.

The prize ceremony will take place this Monday, 10 December, in Havana, to mark International Day of Human Rights.

December 10 2012

Defrauding the Consumer: An Epidemic in Cuba / Ivan Garcia #Cuba

Fooling Nivaldo, 71, is not an easy task. When the old man goes shopping, in his inseparable shopping bag he carries a portable scale. As he rummages through the meat, fruit and vegetables covered with dirt on the metallic trays at the farmers market, the problems arise.

At the checkout, the traders try to scam him, charging more for the products than they weigh. Demanding his rights has given the old man a reputation for stinginess and unfriendliness.

“Yesterday I got twelve pounds of pork oat 23 pesos a pound, when I checked the weight it was 2-1/2 pounds under. It’s common. At every market there are State scales to check they’re selling you the exact weight, but they often rig them. It’s a national epidemic. Fucking people over is like a sport,” says Nivaldo, while rushing to get home before the clouds burst.

Scamming and adulteration food and other items is an old story. In many hard currency shops and snack bars, the principal mission of the staff is to “fine” (i.e. cheat) the customer. There are new methods. Others are clumsy bungles.

In the Island of Cuba Mall, a stone’s throw from the National Capitol building, Luisa, 46, reached into the meat fridges and pulled out two packages of chicken thighs, where it showed the price according to weight.

She added it up. One package cost 2.60 and the other 2.40. In total, 5 convertible pesos. The math doesn’t fail. But in Cuba numbers are magic. Quietly, the cashier sealed the two packages and put the in a nylon bag and said they were 5.30.

Luisa explained that there must have been a mistake. She opened the sealed packages and showed them. The cashier admitted it and replied that “it was the fault of the cash register.”

If you don’t look after yourself, the vendors will blatantly cheat you. Marco, who works in a hard currency supermarket, offers a justification. “We earn very little. The way we get money is to “fine” the customer. Those who work in this sector invest hundreds of dollars to get a place. The thing is hot and we have to go home with money. We also have families.”

The question Marco preferred not to answer was: if the customers are not at fault for their low salaries, why don’t they complain to the union and mount a loud protest in the Plaza of the Revolution.

Ah, no, this they would never do. They could go to jail. Given the lack of legal mechanisms that allow service workers to demand better salaries, the solution is to discharge their repressed anger in the pockets of the consumers.

In the hotels, discos and restaurants where the tourists usually go, the “fines” increase. Many managers of tourist restaurants have a doctorate in the subject. Looking at the credit cards and details like expensive watches or an Apple laptop, they calculate how much money they can skim off.

A few days ago three habaneros living in Miami arrived with several friends at a hard currency snack bar to drink beer in style. On the fly, the employee caught they were “Cubans from the other side.” Every so often, while collecting the empty beer cans, he talked about the Major Leagues. He established empathy with them. After 11 at night, inebriated, happy to share with attentive staff, singing boleros and taking photos, they paid 130 CUC. An excessive amount.

Right now, the Cuban-Americans are the best clients. They leave good tips. And if the guy gets drunk, the “fine” is even more.

To deceive the customer is latent in all sectors of the national life. If you walk down any street in Havana, you will see a multitude of plastic tables of the State food service offering pork sandwiches for 5 pesos, servings of fried rise at 15 pesos and fried chicken at 1.60 an ounce.

I have always been amazed by the capacity of the tropical bureaucracy for absurd formalisms. Every little table has a weight and a sign that indicates the grams of each product a consumer should have.

A dapper “chef” picks a greasy pork leg, skin with strips of meat and dried fruit. He weighs it and puts the hash in a round pan. Does each consumer have to walk around with a portable scale to verify the exact grams? The old Nivaldo does. But the vast majority don’t worry about weighing what they buy.

We Cubans are not used to being scammed. An “extra payment” we accept with discipline, like everything in Cuba. From listening to a speech promising a bright future that never comes, to buying our 80 grams of bread every day that almost always weighs about half that.

In street slang, duping customers is called “fighting/” It’s a vicious circle. You fuck me over from behind the bar, and late I overcharge you 20 CUC for a medical checkup.

It’s a kind of pact. We fuck each other over. Few have the courage to point out those guilty of transforming our lives into a competition to see who can hurt others the most.

The loss of values has been one of the greatest damages caused by the Castro’s in their 54 year reign. To recover them will be very expensive.

Photo: Sale of pig’s liver at a Havana farmer’s market, taken from Worldisround.

December 5 2012