The summer offer of leisure time for Havanans is a trip to nowhere
14ymedio, Darío Hernández, Havana, July 5, 2025 — “Hurry up, the trains waits for no one,” screams a woman on the Central Station passenger platform. This Friday, barely 20 people boarded the train bound for Expocuba, reactivated on July 2 after being paralyzed for a decade. With great fanfare, the authorities celebrated the availability of the route this summer for leisure offers to Havanans.
In the intense midday heat, the yellow and green locomotive starts; children jump from one seat to another as the blue railway wagons rattle.
“This route has been closed for more than ten years. They put it back now because of the huge deficit of buses. It is guaranteed for all the holidays and will continue for the whole year,” one of the engineers, cigarette in hand, tells 14ymedio. With three used railway wagons and a price of 20 pesos, the train was enabled to transport 204 people and makes stops in Luyanó, Dolores, La Víbora, Naranjito, Miraflores, Los Pinos, Alcázar, Arroyo Naranjo, Galapagos, Calabazar and La Piscina.
The stations, he continues to explain, were closed for a long time and began to deteriorate and accumulate garbage. The section that the train covers today had to be cleaned before starting the route, and on the side of the tracks you can still see traces of waste, but “they will continue cleaning it up until Bejucal,” he adds. “They even took down several power and telephone wires that were on the tracks. On one of the trips, the neighbors had to raise a cable with a stick so that the train could pass.”
Bushes, abandoned warehouses, houses and hovels in the middle of nowhere, and a river from which some boys wave to the train is all the journey has to offer. At each stop the train loses passengers, and by the time it reaches Expocuba at 3:30 pm, there are only a grandmother with two grandchildren left. They came to spend some time at the fairgrounds and are going to be disappointed.
The park is closed because the bus carrying the workers broke down, and most of them could not get there. Inflatable toys, confesses an employee, is the only children’s attraction available.
“Today we have hardly had any visitors,” she explains to the newspaper. “I was sitting with only two people until now,” she says. Asked about how Expocuba works when employees can arrive, the woman admits that “normally we have almost all the pavilions closed.”
With a glance at the park’s condition the reason is obvious. The deterioration of the buildings, the wear and tear of the attractions – faded by the sun and with missing pieces – and the almost zero gastronomic offers are eloquent. “There is no longer even the agricultural pavilion where they kept the exhibition animals that everyone was told to go see. They were removed because people started stealing them,” she explains.
“Yes, we do have the inflatable toys park, and all the bars function: La Solera, El Mirador, El Ranchón. The Casa del Queso has a variety of cheeses that aren’t very abundant because we have, as does the country, a shortage of many things,” she says.
Keeping the park running is no easy task. “We workers have no transport. We have a bus that leaves us off on the Calabazar bridge, and none of us lives in Arroyo Naranjo or nearby. When we get off on the bridge we have to figure out how to get home,” she complains. “What happens? The bus also broke down. So, today the famous train has arrived, and the workers are going to go on it to see how it is working”.
On the return, the journey does not differ much from the one-way trip. The sun continues punishing the tin roof of the wagons, which are half bent, and the boys who were in the river have already left.
Expocuba is no longer an option for many in Havana, who are looking for other ways to enjoy, even briefly, the summer days. The state doesn’t offer much either: this Saturday the train to Playas del Este that takes more than an hour and a half on each trip was enabled. Transtur offers trips from Havana to the same destination, with departures every hour from 9:00 am, for 10 dollars or 1,200 pesos.
For those who can pay these prices, a day awaits in which they will have to guarantee, with their own means, everything from the food they consume to the drinking water.
Translated by Regina Anavy
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