A Story of Two Confusions

For Cubans, Babel is not a myth, it is the K Tower, built by military gods and dead generals

Flemish panel ’The Tower of Babel’ 87 x 115.5 cm painted by Jacob Grimmer’s fraternity and exhibited in the Universal Art Building / National Museum of Fine Arts

14ymedio bigger14ymedio, Xavier Carbonell, Salamanca, 15 March 2025 – If I close my eyes I can see myself standing in front of two paintings. I don’t remember which is to my right and which to my left. Memory brings me first to the Tower of Babel by Jacob Grimmer – it was in fact painted by one of his students – and then the one painted by Marten van Valckenborgh’s fraternity. Grimmer was born in Amberes in 1525; Valckenborgh in Lovaina in 1534. I don’t know how their panels – that’s to say panels painted in their workshops but by anonymous hands – came to be in Havana.

I’m in the National Museum of Fine Art, in the mansion which used to be the Asturias Centre. I’m here, and I’m not here, because it’s almost ten years since I last saw these paintings and, for the moment, in order to study them I’m only able to rely on poor reproductions, as well as memory. Both panels represent a biblical myth – the building and destruction of the Tower of Babel.

In Genesis chapter 11, after the Flood but before the patriarchs – that is, during a time that is more than imaginary – men decided to build a tower that reached the sky. No God would have liked this idea. Yahvé, take a look at all those foundations, all that mule activity, all those masons down there in the Sinai Desert and stop their project in the cruelest way possible: “Let’s go down there then and mess up their language so that none of them can understand each other any more”. The worst thing wasn’t that man didn’t manage to get up to the sky but that God had had to descend to Earth.

Tarot cards, always on the ball at reading the Old Testament, represent this second fall literally: on the tarot card, or great mystery no. 16 (The House of God) a bolt of lightning destroys the top of the tower. Men fall to earth and a confetti-like red and blue rainfall covers the plain. Yahvé’s intervention here is the language of fire. For Kafka, a reader of the rabbis, what came from the sky was a gigantic fist which gave forth five successive blows. continue reading

Almost all important museums have a painting of the Tower of Babel. The myth was a huge obsession with the Flemish masters

Almost all important museums have a painting of the Tower of Babel. The myth was a huge obsession with the Flemish masters of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries during the Protestant Reformation. For Juan Benet, who wrote a fine essay on the subject, the tower became fashionable as a way to criticise Rome. At that time, St Peter’s Basilica was under construction and for Northern Europeans this was a symbol of arrogance comparable to that of Babel itself. God’s giant fist was about to punch down at the Pope.

Grimmer and Valckenborgh were both working in this religious climate. Their model is Brueghel the Elder’s ’Tower of Babel’, which today hangs in Vienna’s Art History Museum. An erroneous examination of Grimmer’s ’Tower’ concluded that it too was painted in Valckenborgh’s studio. This was eventually corrected in 2001.

Grimmer’s panel is the one which most resembles Brueghel’s. The foundations are white, and round, and it loses its solidity and three dimensionality as it rises up. It ends up a house of cards, an origami that wouldn’t stand up to any gust of wind; an ants nest in which, although the ant workers keep on labouring it’s obvious that the whole thing is about to collapse. Most of the characters in the picture are lost in their own world: in business, walking about, playing. For them the tower is already lost.

There’s a river right at the gates. The Sinai desert was surrounded by the river Tigris, and the Euphrates, and it’s pretty much accepted that the tower described in the myth was nothing more than a Babylonian ’ziggurat’ (temple tower). In the Brueghel there is a city right there next to the building; Grimmer, however, places the city inside the tower itself; it’s as if the weight of all those little houses consumes the entire project – a cancer of poor planning there in the actual innards of the project, and not sent by Yahvé.

Finally, there’s a long line of travellers being received by a god. He reminds one of Hermes with his staff in his hand or of Zeus wielding his lightning bolts. For the jealous Hebrew Yahvé this is unforgivable. Grimmer, or his student, insist on the isolation of the valley: there’s nothing beyond Babel. It was all or nothing, as Benet said. And it was nothing.

Ten years ago I preferred Grimmer’s painting, but today I like Valckenborgh’s more. It’s stranger, more metallic, his tower feels like a shipwrecked vessel. The ship’s keel rears out of the frame and pokes itself at the viewer. The project is Orwellian, oppressive, symmetrical. All there is to see is hard work; and clouds, which, if we weren’t in the sixteenth century you would say were industrially produced steam. The ground plan isn’t round but four sided, like a skyscraper: even God cannot tear it down with any ease. If a wall is destroyed, then another, smaller one is revealed. We are in front of a beehive whose robustness symbolises human obstinacy.

Which Cuban millionaire bought the two towers that are today kept on the fifth floor of the museum?

Unlike Grimmer’s version, this project doesn’t admit foreign bodies. There are no houses to ruin the outline of its walls, rather arches and then more arches, buttresses, archivolts and mainstays. For him, the Sinai isn’t a flat plain but rather a truce between mountains as high as the tower. Despite it all, Valckenborgh’s style is austere. It befell him to live during the “iconoclastic fury” which led to the destruction of hundreds of Catholic images. Valckenborgh was a Protestant but ended up in exile and died in Frankfurt.

Which Cuban millionaire bought the two towers that are today kept on the fifth floor of the museum? In 2002 both panels were restored by European specialists and were exhibited for a time in Holland. They had waited decades for someone to look after them – so said, with horror, the people who paid for the maintenance of these and other works, in Maastricht.

Babel brings, along with itself, a moral lesson, but this teaching – human pride, divine punishment, futility, confusion – arrives in the tropics diluted and ridiculed. For Cubans, Babel isn’t a myth but rather the Tower K, built by military gods and dead generals. For Babel to be able to shine, Havana has to take on darkness. Our Babel, with a Kafkaesque K, doesn’t belong to those who built it, as in Grimmer and Valckenborgh, but to foreigners. The Tower K isn’t the communist utopia, the first of many beacons of progress, but rather it is the gravestone of a country.

Babel en el trópico. / Xavier Carbonell[
Translated by Ricardo Recluso

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Likes & Dislikes

Disapproving of Trump is not sympathizing with the Democrats or subscribing to the ’Communist Manifesto’, but rather hating a style of doing politics

For Trump, there is only one country, and I’m not even sure it’s the United States. / EFE

14ymedio bigger14ymedio, Xavier Carbonell, Salamanca, 23 February 2025 — Who can forget the tedious English classes in high school, when the teacher asked for a paragraph – a composition, she would say, as if one were Mozart – that listed pleasures and annoyances, hobbies and chores, likes and dislikes. Writing a column about Trump feels like that. An exam, a strange duty, before a world that has accepted reasoning with the viscera (the guts, teacher!) and not with the brain. I have thought a lot, so much, about him. Since the first day and with both hemispheres. But what is coming has a lot to do with the stomach.

I don’t like Trump, I don’t like the fanaticism of Cubans for Trump, I don’t like that he is in the news every day, it’s not healthy, I don’t like the politics of harassment and corporate aggression, I hate the way he manages – like a farm, like Birán [the Castro family estate] – what for us was the country of freedom. I don’t think he understands what a democracy is. I don’t think he understands it or knows how to preserve it. In that he is like us.

Disapproving of Trump is not sympathizing with the Democrats or subscribing to the Communist Manifesto. Disapproving of Trump is hating a style of doing politics that has already had – please remember – four years to show what it could and could not do. Trump, the man who today makes whispered deals with Putin and Maduro, is “the hero who will save the Trocha”? What did Trump do for us in his first term? What is his duty against that insignificant dictatorship, Olympically ignored by 13 administrations, from Eisenhower to Biden? What commits him? The Florida vote? Please. continue reading

What is his duty against this insignificant dictatorship, completely ignored by 13 administrations, from Eisenhower to Biden?

To see a Cuban rave about him, celebrate his victory, throw a pathetic little party, a pathetic little cake with blue, white and red meringue, is to re-enact that orgasmic militancy that he once felt for Fidel Castro. Another “The Man”? Another “The Horse”? Another “My Commander”? Again “This is your house, Fidel”? No, thank you, whoever it is. A politician is an administrator, not a messiah.

I arrived in Europe without knowing what I was going to eat for the next month. I was assigned a number. I know what it is like to be a number or an illegible card, and I am not remotely alone. This country welcomed me, life made its way through mountains of bureaucracy, regulations, paperwork and uncertainty. What kind of human being would I be if I approved – or worse, if I voted! – for a policy that gives the green light to the hunt for migrants, hundreds of them my fellow citizens.

No, Biden’s immigration policies have not solved anything, but that does not justify thousands, perhaps millions of people living in total uncertainty since January 20. Not uncertainty, but fear. That is not the America we believed in. That is not freedom.

But Cubans are never afraid. Cubans, who do not live in a country but in a bubble of exceptionality, do not take it personally. Trump, my friend, the people are with you. One of the lowest hours of Cuban exile was traveling to Washington, to the doors of the White House, and asking for absolutely everything – some already saw themselves in a B-1 Lancer dropping bombs on Point Zero, with the Ride of the Valkyries in the background – except clemency for migrants from Venezuela, Nicaragua and Haiti, three countries as screwed as we are, perhaps more so. And the Afghans? And the Ukrainians? And the others?

Many pro-Trump friends, who are now beginning to moderate their enthusiasm, have told me: “I never imagined it would turn out like this.” I reply that there was nothing to imagine, because Trump may be a cruel, authoritarian guy and a compulsive liar in almost everything, but that when it came to migrants he was more transparent and sincere than the Virgin Mary. You like Trump, but he doesn’t like you.

I don’t like the fact that any Cuban who expresses the slightest displeasure with Trump – which ultimately is not just hating that ugly, orange-haired old man, but the values ​​he proposes – is met by a school of patriotic piranhas on social media. One leaves Cuba to speak, think and defend whatever one wants. Be a Trumpist, I respect that right. But cancelling and censoring, putting all the nuances in the same bag, simplifying, insulting, defaming, those are Villa Marista tactics that we have assimilated by dint of suffering them.

Trump will not help us build a country. No one is going to fix it for us or gift it to us.

Trump will not help us build a country. Nobody is going to fix it for us or gift it to us. For Trump, there is only one country, and I am not even sure it is the United States. The politicians who accompany him, whom the press calls Cuban-Americans, are Americans even if they have Latin surnames. They are concerned about a nation, their own, not that of their parents, and with good reason. Cuba – Kiuba – is a word that must sound very exotic in Washington.

I cannot speak about the end of aid to the independent Cuban press, because I have run out of space. To understand the impact of this news, one only has to take a look at the happiness that is felt in Cubadebate, Granma, the Party and the Foreign Ministry.

Well, Donnie, we’re done (I’ll leave Musk for another day). These are my dislikes, with zero likes because I don’t have Facebook or X. Brain and stomach and an arsenal of patience for the future. I feel free, freer than ever, as every Cuban migrant should feel, and the rest is literature. “Let Trump cook,” one wrote recently. Let him cook, the Kingdom is his. But with what ingredients, with whose sweat, at the cost of what values, with what allies, the Cubans? Like in Woody Allen’s joke, I no longer dare to belong to any club where there are people from my country.

At the end of this tunnel of tension that is about to become a roller coaster, we are ants trying to live our lives in the age of Trump, extras in an episode of House of Cards or Succession, a poorly drawn drawing in the background of the comic strip. Gray and forgettable people. But tell me, at the end of the day, isn’t that a little comforting?

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Waldo Balart in the Fourth Dimension

Like almost all abstract art, the Cuban’s work is at the same time mystical, physical and philosophical.

Balart decided to lead “a marginal existence as the last bastion of personal freedom.” / Waldo Balart/Facebook

14ymedio bigger1ymedio, Xavier Carbonell, Salamanca, 15 February 2025 — After the death of Waldo Balart in Madrid, his little book ’Essays on Art’ began to circulate again, published in 1993 by Betania. A man of many lives, all of them hectic, it was logical that he asked for euthanasia as the only way to stop what seemed to be the beginning of his immortality. A drinking buddy of Pollock and Warhol, he had left Cuba carrying a surname comparable only in historical tension to the surname Castro.

Like almost all abstract art, Waldo Balart’s work is simultaneously mystical, physical and philosophical. His need to explain his paintings – sometimes through convoluted “propositions,” in the manner of Euclid – reveals how much of them are meditative. Purifying the spirit before holding a brush, illuminating oneself before the canvas, breathing, contemplating, classifying, creating.

The search for this alternative mystical meaning – neither Christianity nor yoga could give him everything he was looking for – led him to the physics of color and to the multiple and malleable idea of ​​the fourth dimension. From Einstein, Waldo Balart learned that time can be a substance, and that as a substance it can be represented. “Time heals everything,” he said. And also: “Time worries me.” And also: “Over the years I realize that time with me is wear and tear.” continue reading

From Einstein Waldo Balart learned that time can be a substance, and that as a substance it can be represented

In the oppressive Victorian society where the popular – but not physical – concept of the fourth dimension was born, the idea that there are worlds that our senses cannot grasp was a symbol of freedom. Flatland , a mathematical novel published in 1884 by Edwin Abbott, narrated the adventures of a square who discovers the existence of spheres.

In “flatland” there are only two-dimensional forms, and the appearance of this other being upsets everything. The sphere, on the other hand, does not conceive the possibility of a fourth, a fifth or an nth dimension. The idea was so attractive that it won thousands of followers, such as the bigamist writer Charles Hinton, who invented the tesseract – a hypercube with 24 faces and 32 edges, later painted by Dalí – and the theosophist Claude Bragdon, who aspired to redecorate New York following magical and numerical patterns.

For Waldo Balart, only abstraction – specifically Suprematism and Constructivism – had succeeded, after several failed attempts, in representing these new conceptions of time and space. This required a great deal of inner purification, similar to that of a saint or a hermit.

Pure color, pure form, mathematics and illumination together. A song to freedom that never ceases to have a profound resonance in history.

The Cuban’s affinity with these movements led him to shape his work according to the same search for purity. Pure color, pure form, mathematics and illumination together. A song to freedom that never ceases to have a deep resonance in history – and in his own history – a rebellion against politics and reality that seems to reach its climax in the photo that Rialta published in 2024 of his empty wheelchair. Clean lines, a scarf, paint stains on the floor, the absent body. It is the Heart Sutra of Buddhism: emptiness is form, form is emptiness.

“The needs for freedom and solidarity are born from an internal struggle within the creator,” writes Waldo Balart, “which drives him to become self-absorbed and thus be able to channel his energy from a personal perspective.” This idea is expressed much more clearly in his letter to the poet Gonzalo Rojas, where the painter claims to have succeeded in translating onto canvas the feeling of emptiness of Saint John of the Cross, the great Spanish mystic.

The perfect representation of the dispossesion was a black square like Kubrick’s – “it can’t be a circle, because then it would be a black hole” – because it was at the same time the absence of color and all colors, delimited by a solid form. “I consider it as nothingness, which is the only way to achieve communion with the Universe.”

Essays on Art‘ does not contain only essays on art. Waldo Balart foresaw the pressure of the Internet as early as 1987, when he attended an exhibition by the technological giant IBM in the Egyptian temple of Debod, transplanted in Madrid. He was shown the making of a chip and the future of computing. The situation was like walking through a labyrinth with an unlikely tour guide: the Minotaur. The artist saw in all this a danger for those who wish to lead “a marginal existence as the last bastion of personal freedom.” A prophecy fulfilled.

One of the most delicious texts in the anthology is ’Revolution’, the “outline of a history of the Cuban tribe, descendants of the Goths and the Lucumíes”

One of the most delicious texts in the anthology is ’Revolution’, the “outline of a history of the Cuban tribe, descendants of the Goths and the Lucumíes.” This comedy, which begins in 1492 and goes through the wars of independence and the Revolution of 1930 until reaching 1959, is his particular reading of the island’s past.

With Castro – his former-brother-in-law – a Russian flag is placed on the stage and “all the actors get into geometric-military formations, and begin to march like automatons repeating slogans in unison that the judges have ordered them: “blah burun gru puraca achán.” Waldo Balart senses the Cuban apocalypse, and after a season of “fights, killings and hangings” comes the great dispossession of all symbols. Only emptiness and a song by The Beatles remain.

What I like about Waldo Balart is not only his paintings, always with beautiful titles – Structure of Light, Axiomatic Orde, Longitudinal Knot Genesi, Proposition – but also that essential Cubanness that Castroism has always wanted to exterminate. The Island as a synthesis of the universal, as the zero coordinate to search for the rest of the universe. The Island, not as a closed-off state, but as a starting point.

The artist knew himself to be the custodian of this memory, which had “considerable weight” for him. That is why he liked to point out that the Revolution was only an accident – ​​with all the implications of that word – in a larger story. “Everything has been said,” he insisted with Gide, “but since no one listens, it must be repeated.”

Three steps into the void. / Xavier Carbonell

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Dear Mario

When Haydée Santamaría signs her last letter to Vargas Llosa, she addresses a man who has already written some of the greatest novels in the language

Santamaría was responsible for the “revolutionary education” of the new Latin American writers. / Casa de las Américas

14ymedio bigger14ymedio, Xavier Carbonell, Salamanca, 9 February 2025 — How little we know of Haydée Santamaría. An odd woman who suffered from depression, someone consumed by incurable resentment. She committed suicide in 1980. But we are familiar with her writings. “A bullet cannot end infinity. For fourteen years I have seen human beings I so dearly loved die. I am at Fidel’s side. I have always done what he wanted me to do. I am tired of living. I believe I have lived too much. The sight of the sun is no longer as beautiful to me. Looking at a palm tree gives me no pleasure. And all the rest of it,” she wrote.

In the book of horror stories that the Castro regime created for Cuban school children, Haydée and her brother Abel assume the roles Hansel and Gretel while Batista plays the witch. Repulsed and frightened, I listened as my teachers recounted the story of the boy’s martyrdom dozens of times. The son of Spanish parents – his father was from Orense, his mother from Salamanca – he was born in Encrucijada, forty kilometers from my hometown. They gouged his eyes out, we were told, as his sister looked on. She looked on, they reiterated, as if the real crime was not so much the murder itself but their choosing to make Haydée their accomplice.

This, we now know, was a myth, a twisted fiction repeated ad nauseam as propaganda. According to one of my teachers, Abel’s eyes were removed and then shown to Haydée. According to another, she witnessed the torture. In the latter version, she seems to have held his eyes in her hands like Saint Lucia. I cried as I listened to the story. But who knows if this grotesque image of her brother — a ghostly, blind twenty-something — was engraved on Haydée’s retinas with the same innocence, with the same clarity, as on ours at age ten or eleven. continue reading

Patron saint of hippies and other outcasts under the Castro regime, Haydée was the tsarina of Casa de las Américas until her death

Patron saint of hippies and other outcasts under the Castro regime, Haydée was the tsarina of Casa de las Américas until her death. Her responsibility was the “revolutionary education” of young Latin American writers. She claimed to have made that generation famous, something she admitted in numerous documents, but never with greater elation than in a letter she sent to Mario Vargas Llosa on May 14, 1971.

The document is famous, having been cited by the likes of Jorge Fornet and Rafael Rojas. I myself discovered it between pages 66 and 67 in a 1971 issue of the journal “Casa.” The whole magazine is one long artillery barrage. It starts off with a speech by Fidel. The main course follows, with instructions on cultural “parameterization.”* And for dessert, the self-incrimination of Cuban poet Heberto Padilla.

The letter to Vargas Llosa shows up on a little slip of paper, folded like the message in a fortune cookie, to aid the reader’s digestion. As the note itself explains, it is presented this way because of the urgent need to respond the Peruvian writer’s resignation from the magazine’s editorial board. Fortunately, I was able to steal that issue of “Casa” from a dusty bookshelf at Central University before the termites could get to it. I now have it in front of me along with the letter.

By the time Haydée adds her signature to the letter’s four long pages, she was addressing a man who had already written some of the Spanish language’s most acclaimed novels: The City and the Dogs, The Green House and Conversation in the Cathedral. She freely reveals the author’s address –Via Augusta 211, Ático 2.o, Barcelona. Like Beethoven, she knows how to create a big bang.

Haydée lurches between totalitarian coldness and revolutionary coarseness, the two rhetorical styles of Cuban strongmen

She addresses him as “sir,” not “comrade,” as Cuban poet Nicolás Guillén liked to do, because Vargas Llosa is no longer her colleague. First, the formalities. He cannot resign from the board because the board no longer exists. It was abolished “because having a divergence of opinions among committee members was unacceptable.” Surgical castration to treat the cancer of free expression. “We thought this action was preferable to simply excluding people like you from the board,” she explains. Haydée lurches between totalitarian coldness and revolutionary coarseness, the two rhetorical styles of Cuban strongmen.

What a shame, the midwife mentions in an aside. “A young man like you,” someone who could have done so much for Fidel, like García Márquez, who would go on to enjoy a personal friendship with the Cuban leader, something Haydée denies to Vargas Llosa. He is exiled from the communist firmament, dragging dozens of intellectuals with him. The Peruvian writer had to add his voice — “a voice that we helped get heard” — to the unanimous chorus.

The talent of the Revolution’s old aristocrats to turn a statement into a judicial weapon is also employed here. She mentions Padilla, a writer “who has acknowledged his counterrevolutionary activities” and has never been tortured. “It is clear that you have never faced terror,” Haydée says. It is clear that the ghost of her brother still haunts her. If the regime does not defend itself, it would really be like “letting Abel die.”

The trial continues. Vargas Llosa acceptance of Venezuela’s Rómulo Gallegos prize in 1967, which the Chavez government later rescinded, was an insult. He should have given the money to Che Guevara and his guerrilla fighters, as Havana suggested. “Buying a house was more important to him than showing solidarity with Che’s military efforts at a decisive moment.” Thus, Vargas Llosa is responsible for Guevara’s death later that same year.

At the end, Haydée asks that her death be viewed as a sacrifice – like Che, like the Vietnamese, like Abel – and that is what she will get, but not from Vargas Llosa

The tone of the letter becomes more strident. His opinions on Fidel’s position regarding the Soviet invasion of Czechoslovakia are “ridiculous.” Appearing at an American university is a sin. Not going to Havana when he is invited is also a sin. Vargas Llosa can only “regret” being “the living image of the colonized writer, contemptuous of our people, vain, confident that writing well not only makes one forgive bad actions but also allows one to pass judgement on a great movement like the Cuban Revolution.”

At the end, Haydée asks that her death be viewed as a sacrifice – like Che, like the Vietnamese, like Abel – and that is what she will get, but not from Vargas Llosa. After a lifetime “of fuses and cannon fire all around”, she kills herself in a conventional way, by a self-inflicted gunshot wound, like Eduardo Chibás and Osvaldo Dorticós before her. Abel and Celia, her children with Armando Hart, will also die prematurely, in an accident that occurred in 2008. Fidel Castro will outlive them all. As will Vargas Llosa.

*Translator’s note: a process of establishing “parameters” and categorizing anyone who falls outside of them as misfits.

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Green Day

Melones has shown how cruel Cubans can be when it comes to choosing between the living and the dead

Military service in Cuba develops unparalleled skills, such as dry shaving and equating obedience with survival. / Vanguardia

14ymedio bigger14ymedio, Xavier Carbonell, Salamanca, 26 January 2025 — Even in politics, one can (should?) be frivolous. For many years I refused to wear olive green shirts. My situation was particularly dramatic, since everyone – from my grandparents to relatives in the Yuma [abroad]– insisted on giving me changes of clothes in various shades of green, from incandescent green to snot green. They wanted me green, green, like Lorca’s clichéd green. My refusal had a simple explanation, and a little family sensitivity would have been enough to guess it: who, having spent time in the Cuban Army barracks, can stand that color?

Military service in my country develops unparalleled skills, such as bathing with a 500-milliliter bottle of water, dry shaving, and equating obedience with survival. Wearing the unforgettable army shirts, changed only once a week despite the tropical heat, also required skill. You put your left arm into the sleeve, then your right; you button it up to the neck; you flap your wings, squat, stretch your arms vigorously, trying to escape the semicircular scab on your armpit.

The lieutenant has his solitary dove on his shoulder and the major a star; the recruit’s rank is that smelly crescent moon

The lieutenant has his solitary dove on his shoulder and the major a star; the recruit’s rank is that smelly crescent, darker than the rest of the cloth, even more disgusting if one becomes aware that others have worn the same stiff shirt, which marches alone, one, two, one, two, in the plaza of the School of Defense.

I suppose that these days, any Cuban man – and some women who voluntarily enter the lion’s den – will have been reminded of his military service by the news of the explosion in Melones. Only due to a metaphysical mistake was it not us — in another time, in another province but with the same clothes — but those 13, a number that is always a bastard for the continue reading

superstitious.

Melones has shown how cruel we Cubans – humans – can be when it comes to choosing between the living and the dead. We have cared more about the messianic Donald Trump, who snatches away millions of Cubans even though he has made it very clear what migrants mean to him: worms, criminals and pariahs, just like for Castro. We have cared more about parole, CBP One, credible fear, asylum, the White House, Melania’s hat, tea with the Bidens. We have cared more about the 553, and how could we not care, if – at least the political prisoners – should not have spent a single day behind bars. Life weighs more.

But who cares about the “heroes,” the “combatants,” those who “died fulfilling their duty,” the sweet Cuban warriors?

But who cares about the “heroes,” the “combatants,” those who “died in the line of duty,” the sweet Cuban warriors? The regime knows well what it does and what it says: a soldier’s job is to die for the Revolution. It is not the same to say that nine children died – they were children: look at their social networks – because children have families; soldiers do not. It is not the same to pronounce a name as to list four officers, with their ranks. We have learned that when a man dies wearing the stinking olive green shirt, his life is lighter. One more casualty in the great struggle against an imaginary enemy – Revolution is fiction – it is not a man who dies, a number dies.

Now I see the photos of the Student Bastion all over Cuba, of Díaz-Canel smiling while the idiot on duty disassembles a Kalashnikov, of a crowd of university students taking photos – in Holguín, the day after the funeral tribute to the 13 of Melones! – of a fire-eater handling a machine gun, posing like a Power Ranger. Here, instead of life, what weighs more is the moral impudence of the Cuban. Does no one feel guilty about Melones? Nor for the Supertankers? Nor for Angola and so many other wars?

Too much blood stains the battered shirts of the Army. Blood spilled by mistake or bad luck.

Too much blood stains the battered shirts of the Army. Blood spilled by mistake or bad luck, by order of an imbecile – we already know that the Armed Forces collect them – or to please the Dracula-like Commander. That blood stains the hands of Díaz-Canel and of every high official, of the deputies of Parliament, who have not had the courage to raise a debate about the service, and of the entire Cuban military ranks, from Álvaro López Miera to the hundreds of drunken sergeants in every municipality.

I will not say goodbye to the boys from Melones with a martial salute or with funeral paraphernalia. I will say goodbye to them as the otaku , the future chef, the football fan, the one who had a girlfriend waiting for him, a friend with whom he wandered the streets, parents. More than ten years ago, when I looked like them and wore the same shirt they wore, we sang songs in English in that dark square of the Santa Clara Defense School.

It was the “music of the pre,” Evanescence, Gotye, Nickelback, Gorillaz, AC/DC, Aerosmith and especially Green Day, which I now play to remember. To remember them. “I walk this empty street / On the Boulevard of Broken Dreams / Where the city sleeps / And I’m the only one, and I walk alone.”

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COLLABORATE WITH OUR WORK: The 14ymedio team is committed to practicing serious journalism that reflects Cuba’s reality in all its depth. Thank you for joining us on this long journey. We invite you to continue supporting us by becoming a member of 14ymedio now. Together we can continue transforming journalism in Cuba.

When Cuba Was On The Goldrush Trail

The very rare ‘Californian Album’, a jewel of colonial lithography, was published in the Havana workshops of Louis Marquier

The illustration, ’A good carriage ride’, shows gold prospectors on board the emblematic Cuban buggy. / Zoila Lapique

14ymedio bigger14ymedio, Xavier Carbonell, Salamanca, 1 February 2025 – On the 24th of January 1848 General John Sutter – christened Johann August in his native Switzerland and don Juan Sutter in his adoptive Mexico – found some gold nuggets in the river running through his land. He tried to keep the find a secret. Two months later a newspaper published a headline, which we would imagine to be in huge black letters, like those which John Wayne used to read in the Westerns: “Gold Mine Found!”

The news was, in actual fact, presented in just one paragraph, and in a modest font. Three or four rather frenzied sentences which promised seams of gold “in almost every part of the country” and “great chances for scientific capitalists”. And so began gold fever in California, a magnet for all types of treasure hunters and bandits. Very soon the very President of the United States had to admit that on the other side of the continent – there are more than 4,000 km between New York and San Francisco – there were people who were about to get very rich indeed.

For gold seekers, who arrived in California with a pick, a spade, buckets and divining rods, it was the journey of their lives. John, or Johann, or Juan Sutter was eventually ruined by the flood of migrants who arrived on his land (and on the rest of the American east coast) over the following decades, without asking permission. (One of these migrants was, for certain, a German hairdresser named Frederick Trump, who ran away to the United States in 1885 to escape military service. Cured of fever in remote Alaska, he dedicated himself to hotels and real estate… and a president for a grandson… Finally wealthy, he returned to his native village in Bavaria. And was deported). continue reading

For gold seekers, who arrived in California with a pick, a spade, buckets and divining rods, it was the journey of their lives.

One usually arrived in California by boat, via Panama and the Pacific. Other adventurers arrived in Mexico, reaching Sutter’s property overland. In 1850, in Cuba’s golden age, Havana was an obligatory stopover.

The treasure seekers arrived on the island en masse, just as many on their way home as on their way out. It’s undeniable that some of them, more seduced by the mulata women, the tabacco and the climate (coming, as they did, from colder countries, just like Herr Trump) forgot all about their original mission. They crowded into the port and the city squares, the taverns and the walkways, each one having the appearance of a long-bearded beggar, and it’s not hard to imagine their stuttering attempts to beg for a drink, some food or a smoke.

Witness to that invasion were two artists – Ferrán and Baturone (who for me resemble Hernández and Fernández, from Tintin), ubiquitous, with their sketchbooks in hand – who dedicated themselves to record, in a published book, these “types” and their customs, in twelve printed plates. It’s the extremely rare publication, the ’California Album’, an absolute jewel of Cuban lithography, born in the Havana workshops of the French printer Louis Marquier.

The ’California Album’ was sold in instalments, some of them exquisitely coloured and others in black and white. Ferrán and Baturone were not only skilled at creating their drawings, but they were also ingenious at titling them. The titles were translated into English, perhaps to make them marketable to the gold prospectors as a souvenir of their stay in Havana.

The ’California Album’ was sold in instalments, some of them exquisitely coloured and others in black and white

‘A Fortune Made’ – of which there is no version in colour – is the title of one picture which shows a typical prospector, posing formally, standing upright like a biblical patriarch, with a sombrero, a three-quarter length jacket and a beard reaching down to his chest. In another, the same character, along with two colleagues who are clearly hungover, now swigs from a bottle of moonshine, all three now posing in more ’comfortable’ positions. They drink, more and more, as though they didn’t have to leave soon for a new destination – a destination which would be in a place of temperance.

Wearing a neckscarf, and with his shirt open, the traveller goes into the street looking for conquest. He looks like a vagabond, but he has money. He’s in good spirits – like a ’patron of the arts’ -and he doesn’t hesitate to sit himself down in Havana’s Alameda de Paula to peel an orange with a knife, surrounded by habanera women who entertain him with tambourines and a barrel organ. He meets up with other prospectors, all of them just as drunk as he is, and they hire a seven-seater buggy and pay for a good ride.

Gold prospectors are – as the rascally Ferrán and Baturone observe – in favour of letting things just drift along: they are calm, pleasure-seeking, always drunk and never changing. If José Antonio Saco had not already written, in 1830, a report on vagrancy in Cuba, then one would have said that it was these guys who were the first to establish such a thing.

But not everything is rosy for those who have found a little gold. It’s with some discomfort that we observe a pair of friends almost levitating through the effects of cheap and rough alcohol. Two others, perhaps through having lost a bet, or having lost their last gold nuggets, wildly gesticulate their predicament. And there, next to a cannon, his gaze lost somewhere out in the bay, a melancholic prospector with a broken shoe attempts to soothe the corns on his feet.

It would seem that habaneros were not oblivious to these Californian gold nuggets, and it’s likely that these were the root cause of numerous disagreements

It would seem that habaneros were not oblivious to these Californian gold nuggets, and it’s likely that these were the root cause of numerous disagreements. In the engraving, ’Realization’, three prospectors are quarrelling with a jeweller, or a valuer. To settle the dispute, the islander lifts up a pair of weighing scales.

My favourite image from the ’California Album’ continues – naturally – to be: ’What Great Tabacco!’ You can smell it and you can taste it. One miner’s delight with his cigar caddy, and another’s delight in a whole box of them – with its official seal – seems to sum up their fantastical lives: smoke, dreams, frenzy … and ash.

California Dreamin’. / Xavier Carbonell

Translated by Ricardo Recluso

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COLLABORATE WITH OUR WORK: The 14ymedio team is committed to practicing serious journalism that reflects Cuba’s reality in all its depth. Thank you for joining us on this long journey. We invite you to continue supporting us by becoming a member of 14ymedio now. Together we can continue transforming journalism in Cuba.

‘50 Stories of Cuba in Exile’ and an Essay on Sugar Among the January Books

Last month, Azúcar, an essay that compares the history of sugar with that of civilization, arrived in bookstores.

The Ácana mill, in Matanzas, drawn in 1857 by Eduardo Laplante as part of his “collection of views” of colonial sugar mills / Project Gutenberg

14ymedio bigger14ymedio, Xavier Carbonell, Salamanca, 2 February 2025 – “Azúcar!” It was for decades the battle cry of Celia Cruz, sung in vibrant and honeyed syllables. “Without sugar there is no country” was the mantra of the Republican landowners, which in the light of the current sugarcane debacle sounds like a spiteful prophecy against Fidel Castro. In fact, Cuba owes its opulent nineteenth century – railways, cities, mills – and also its sickly attachment to slavery, abolished late, to sugar.

Manuel Moreno Fraginals, in the prologue to his controversial study on the sugarcane industry on the Island, described like no other the ferocity with which sugar shaped the history of Cuba. The author of El ingenio [The Sugar Mill]- who ended up disgusted and going into exile in Miami, where he died in 2001 – traced “the footprints that start in sugar and manifest themselves in the establishment of a university chair, or in a decree on tithes, or in the characteristic form of the Cuban architectural complex, or in the terrible effects of the razing of forests and the erosion on the soils.”

Azúcar [Sugar] (publisher Ariel) arrived in bookstores this January, an essay of almost 500 pages signed by the Dutch researcher Ulbe Bosma, which equates the history of sugar with that of civilization. For the text, where it is not difficult to find the imprint of Moreno Fraginals, “the rise of sugar speaks to us of progress, but also of a much darker history of human exploitation, racism, obesity and environmental destruction.” continue reading

In an interview, Bosma illustrated the political and economic importance of the so-called Creole saccharocracy

In an interview offered in Barcelona to the newspaper La Vanguardia, Bosma illustrated the political and economic importance of the so-called Creole saccharocracy during the 19th century and the first half of the 20th. If today it is the technology tycoons Elon Musk and Jeff Bezos who pull the strings of world politics, he said, at that time the influence of the big sugar surnames – Fanjul, for example – was decisive in the United States and Europe.

For Bosma, social networks are just as addictive as sugar, and the key to dealing with both is moderation. He says that he adds sugar to his coffee, but only “a teaspoon.” “Despite everything I’ve found out,” he says, “I’ve gotten used to its flavor and don’t want to lose it.”

Independent Cuban publishers have had a modest production during the first month of the year. One highlight is Como el ave fénix [Like the Phoenix] (Rialta Magazine), 50 interviews published by Cuban journalist William Navarrete in recent months on CubaNet. They are, for its author, “stories of Cuba in exile.” They narrate, according to the life experiences of those involved, the last 100 years of the Cuban nation.

“For years, William Navarrete has had the sense of smell and sagacity to locate many of the protagonists of the politics and culture of the Island of the twentieth century and get them talking about the lost city, the political prison, the purges, the labor camps, the exile or the great names and events of their life stories,” say its editors, who qualify the book as “one of the most powerful collective testimonies” after 1959.

Rialta also publishes, in its ’Files’ section, a recount of Antonio José Ponte’s career in ’La Gaceta de Cuba’

Rialta also publishes, in its Expedientes [Files] section, an account of the career of Antonio José Ponte in La Gaceta de Cuba. What was published by the poet and essayist in one of the most disgusting magazines of official culture gives the measure of how his critical caliber was gestating. This dossier is also a sample of the work of Ponte in Cuba, the attempts at “civic extermination” to which the regime subjected him and his emergence as one of the indisputable voices of his generation.

Ediciones Memoria, a small publishing house in Camagüey dedicated to the rescue of Cuban civic thought, publishes Las conferencias de Shoreham, by Manuel Márquez Sterling. “His prose is a long and subtle examination of both his own and the national conscience. There is no lack of irony, even mockery, but above all, in the sometimes light ease of speech, there is always the seriousness of the duty to be,” explains his editor, Alenmichel Aguiló.

The anthology of poems by the Russian Nobel Prize winner Joseph Brodsky, who died in 1996, translated by Ernesto Hernández Busto for the Siruela publishing house, is already in bookstores. Devoted to the writer exiled from the Soviet Union, the Cuban has written: “With Joseph Brodsky I am always tempted to make different versions, perhaps because in his poetry there is also an effort to communicate a certain universality, a certain transcendence.”

Translated by Regina Anavy

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COLLABORATE WITH OUR WORK: The 14ymedio team is committed to practicing serious journalism that reflects Cuba’s reality in all its depth. Thank you for joining us on this long journey. We invite you to continue supporting us by becoming a member of 14ymedio now. Together we can continue transforming journalism in Cuba.

‘I Breathe Through Memory’, Gastón Baquero’s Letters to Lydia Cabrera

The poet went into exile in the Spanish capital, and Cabrera in the United States. Both were part of a Republic that had gone down the drain.

’Slave Ship’, by Manuel Mendive (1976). / National Museum of Fine Arts, Havana

14ymedio bigger14ymedio, Xavier Carbonell, Salamanca, 28 December 2024 – How could Lydia Cabrera and Gastón Baquero speak to each other except as two Napoleonic marshals after Waterloo, or as two old gods banished by new gods? Reconstructing at least a segment of this conversation, as Ernesto Hernández Busto has done for the publishing house Betania, is not just philology: it is a profession of faith.

The presence of the exile in any era is silent. One wants to exist quietly and not attract attention. Baquero broke that myth with his correspondence and with the Creole lunches that he presided over in Madrid – “topped off with a tamarind drink” – which ended up becoming a tradition for his disciples.

The poet went into exile in the Spanish capital; and Cabrera in the United States (“a country she never really liked”). Both were part of a Republic that had gone down the drain, not only as a political project but also as a possibility. For Hernández Busto, Cabrera is “the great loner of Cuban literature.” A staunch anti-communist, what place could she have in Castro’s new order? She survived thanks to the jewels she had taken out of Cuba. continue reading

“Both lived long lives, with somewhat sad old ages, which revolved around those two poles of Cuban exile: Madrid and Miami”

“Both lived long lives, with somewhat sad old ages, which revolved around those two poles of Cuban exile: Madrid and Miami,” Hernández Busto sums up in his prologue. The originals of the Letters are among the Lydia Cabrera Papers of the Cuban Heritage Collection at the University of Miami library. The book is available for free download at this link.

In the first letter, which Hernández Busto estimates was sent around 1978, Baquero comments on the literary “perversity” that Alejo Carpentier’s The Rite of Spring represents for him . “It is the book that Castro had been demanding for a long time to consider it complete,” he says.

Between anecdotes and gossip about friends and enemies, Baquero outlines several ideas about the past. The first, about the demonization of the Republic promoted by Castroism, is precisely what Carpentier’s book does not forgive. “Scoundrelisms like this one by Alejo help Castro a lot, who justifies all his crimes by painting a country that, according to that painting, deserved to be destroyed,” he writes.

The cult of the frustrated nation takes on, in the letters, an almost religious flight

The cult of the frustrated nation takes on an almost religious dimension in the letters. “Lidia: you did very well to be born on May 20,” he says in 1982. “You are prenatal ready. You were born on the day of the birth of the Republic, and you and I know how marvelous the word Republic tastes, the Republic.”

Another idea is the distinction between the exile and the dissident. “A dissident is, for example, Carlos Franqui, he of Revolución,” he tells Cabrera that same year. “I don’t know how I would feel in that meeting with people, compatriots yes, but at a distance, who are here in Madrid and we have never met. They consider themselves the great democrats, betrayed (very late, in some cases, by the way) by the bonísimo fidelito.”

Years and years of correspondence leave unforgettable scenes and comments. Lydia and Eugenio Florit dancing a danzón; more of Carpentier’s mischief; Lorenzo García Vega’s “son of a bitch”; Nicolás Guillén’s “comemierdería*”; mutual friends, lost, quarreled or dead.

In 1978, Baquero had been in Madrid for almost 20 years, an exile that had not extinguished his “creoleness,” he warned his correspondent. That year he obtained Spanish citizenship, but he remained in the imaginary territory of the Island: “I live in memory, I breathe through memory.”

*Translator’s note: comemierdería: literally (one could say), shit-eating-ness. The dictionary offers: mediocrity, pedantry, stupidity, dipshit.

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COLLABORATE WITH OUR WORKThe 14ymedio team is committed to practicing serious journalism that reflects Cuba’s reality in all its depth. Thank you for joining us on this long journey. We invite you to continue supporting us by becoming a member of 14ymedio now. Together we can continue transforming journalism in Cuba.

November Books: The Mafia in Cuba, Belkis Ayon’s Gods, Sartre and Beauvoir

A novel by Pavel Giroud, an anthology by storyteller Alberto Garrido and a farewell to Juan Manuel Salvat.

Work ’La cena’, painted by Cuban artist Belkis Ayón / Belkis Ayón Estate

14ymedio bigger14ymedio, Xavier Carbonell, Salamanca, 30 November 2024 — Marked by borderline figures – she died at the age of 32, one year younger than Christ, in 1999, before the beginning of the millennium – Belkis Ayón created a world no less divided between two dimensions: that of color and that of the spirit. Observing her prints and paintings leaves a metaphysical doubt: if Ayon already shows us the other world, the spiritual plane, why does she give the feeling that there is still much more, hidden behind those Abakuá faces?

Ayón’s suicide – she locked herself in a bathroom and shot herself in the head with her father’s revolver – only reinforces the mystery. Her silence makes one despair. During the Special Period, when the country was plunged into extreme poverty, the artist focused on her black, white and gray works. The themes of loyalty and betrayal, of lost paradise and desire, as well as the Abakuá religious worldview – the sacrifice of the goddess Sikán – surrounded her in her last decade.

In 2021, the Reina Sofia Museum in Madrid dedicated a major retrospective exhibition to her, commissioned by Cristina Vives, her friend. It was the sign that Ayón had awakened the public’s and critics’ interest all over the world. This November, the Spanish publishing house Turner publishes Nkame mafimba, a compelling catalogue raisonné of her work that expands on an earlier version.

Nkame mafimba means “praise, deep conversation.” The phrase synthesizes Ayón’s relationship with her prints and also the ideal reading she demands for her work. With texts in English and Spanish, the book continue reading

explores how the artist delved into the Abakuá universe, the research she conducted and how the symbolic translation of those myths came about.

Ayón was born at the end of a decade of international enthusiasm for Fidel Castro’s Revolution. In 1960, Jean Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir traveled to Havana to see with their own eyes the “hurricane over sugar.” Their impact on the generation of young Cuban intellectuals was enormous. The newspapers of the time were filled with articles about the two visitors.

Sartre and Beauvoir in Cuba. “La luna de miel de la Revolución” (The Revolution’s Honey Moon) (Casa Vacía) reconstructs step by step that visit and the chronology of that decisive year for Castro’s international image. Compiled by Duanel Díaz Infante and Marial Iglesias Utset – author of a fascinating study of the birth of the Republic in 1902, “Las metáforas del cambio en la vida cotidiana”(The Metaphors of Daily Life) – the volume gathers the meaning of the presence of both French intellectuals in a country that, according to Sartre, “had to triumph.”

Filmmaker Pavel Giroud, who was at the center of many controversies last year after the release of “El caso Padilla” (The Padilla Case), makes his debut in novels with Habana Nostra. The story is based on an old script by the director about the gangster Lucky Luciano, a regular in the Cuban capital during the 40’s. Finalist of the Azorín Novel Prize, it was published by Traveler and has already been presented in Spain and the U.S.

An anthology by storyteller Alberto Garrido, “Gritos y susurros” (Cries and Whispers), was published this month by Ilíada Ediciones. Novelist Amir Valle has said of these stories that “they shook in many ways the panorama of national literature. Undoubtedly, pieces of excellence by an authentic Cuban short-story writer on par with Alejo Carpentier, Lino Novás Calvo, Virgilio Piñera and Onelio Jorge Cardoso.”

With the death of Juan Manuel Salvat on November 26, the Cuban exile community lost the man who did the most to bring Cuba’s literary heritage within reach. Born in Sagua la Grande, Villa Clara, he was part of a generation that, without forgetting Cuba, knew how to rebuild his life and think about the future.

El Gordo (The Fat Man), as his friends called him, did not hesitate to take up arms first against Batista and then against Castro. He protested against the visit of Soviet leader Anastas Mikoyan and was expelled from the University of Havana. He left Cuba clandestinely and returned by sea. He was imprisoned. He fled again and went into exile in Miami, where he realized he had to change his strategy.

An exile needs books, and Salvat became not only the rescuer of old authors, who also left the island but also the publisher of new ones. From Lydia Cabrera to Reinaldo Arenas, he nurtured his catalog with names of excellence. Thanks to those books, he told me, he could utter the phrase in which his legacy is summarized: “I have managed to live as a Cuban all my life, even though I have been far from the country.

Translated by LAR

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COLLABORATE WITH OUR WORKThe 14ymedio team is committed to practicing serious journalism that reflects Cuba’s reality in all its depth. Thank you for joining us on this long journey. We invite you to continue supporting us by becoming a member of 14ymedio now. Together we can continue transforming journalism in Cuba.

I Left Home on an Adventurous Night

Cuba is still the same at the end of this year, and according to Dr. House, it will continue like this, because people never change

“Chicharrón y frijoles negros” Chicharrón and Black Beans], oil on canvas by Roberto Fabelo, painted in 2016 // Fabelo Studios

14ymedio bigger14ymedio, Xavier Carbonell, Salamanca, December 29, 2024 — If you are given the choice between staying at home and watching “Dr. House” – especially that episode in which Wilson asks him not to confuse medicine with metaphysics and he answers that it doesn’t matter, because the truth is the truth – or visiting a place related to Cuba, even if it is the most innocent, always choose the first. And not only because House’s philosophy is always better than nationalism and nostalgia, but because everything that has to do with that country is tired, historical or transcendental. Even more so if it is the end of the year, when every act is a summary, a compendium of what has been lived and an announcement of the future.

But it happens that one chooses both things, and with the promise of returning to television at midnight – tea or cigar in hand – he immerses himself in the cold of Salamanco, zero degrees while I write for the reader’s information, and overcomes the mileage that separates him from the Domus Artium, the monstrous enclosure that houses the collection of Cuban art by Luciano Méndez.

Méndez, an old banker born in Salamanca, is one of the quietest and most famous collectors of Cuban works. Money, more will, more contacts. Residence – I think – in Havana. More than 600 pieces preserved, judging by the explanation of the attentive receptionist of the Domus Artium, in vaults safer than Winston Churchill’s bunker. Of these, the work of several contemporary painters is on display until February. Take advantage, boy, whispers a little devil or a cemí [Taino spirit] on my shoulder. continue reading

Deliciously touristy, very warm, the guide gives her best so that the Europeans can savor the tropical flavor

Well, here I am, eight at night, about to start a tour. I am accompanied by my wife and, together but not scrambled, a tall German woman who looks like Tilda Swinton, a couple of university students – I would say they appear to be stoned if it were not a cliché – two French housewives and the guide, Cuban by the way. It promises to be an immersive experience, so I stay away from the motley group as much as possible.

Deliciously touristy, very warm – did I mention that we are now at minus one degree? – the guide gives it her best so that the Europeans can savor the tropical flavor. The excess of maritime metaphors – the exhibition is called “Log of an Unfinished Journey” – leaves Swinton and company cold, and they soon disperse and contemplate the paintings, turning their necks with the elasticity of those possessed.

So much solemnity overwhelms me, and I begin to see the exhibition from the end to the beginning. If the crossing is unfinished, if the logbook is incomplete, if the sailor has an elegant name for the raft, I will have no problems. Serious mistake. Because of my recklessness, Fabelo assaults me at the start. Fabelo is to painting what Padura is to literature. They no longer surprise us but we like to have them on hand, on the wall, in the shower or on the bookshelf, the better to insult them.

For his ornamental vocation and how good he looks on a coaster or a curtain, Fabelo is a great favorite of collectors

For his ornamental vocation and how good he looks on a coaster or a curtain, Fabelo is a great favorite of collectors. The guide explains to the survivors that the master is not only a prodigy at painting tits – we are facing a great breast observer – but also works with everyday objects of the country, and that the blackened coffee maker, that Celtic cauldron, that toothless fork truly belong to the families of that aboriginal civilization. I am amazed, because Fabelo’s junk enjoys better health than the utensils of any Cuban house.

I come across Alejandro Gómez Cangas’ megalithic lines. Lines that are scary, lines that confirm what we already knew: even after death we Cubans form a line. Faceless faces, broken flip-flops, the eternal string bags. It makes you want to ask who’s the last [in line], but we get to Sosabravo’s paintings. I am bewitched looking at the transparent indigo of “La Soprano Calva” [The Bald Soprano]- death, according to Cabrera Infante – and I pass by Sandra Ramos, Daniela Águila, the photos of Roberto Chile, that Landaluze of Castroism, and Manuel Mendive.

I have always wondered why a country that has Belkis Ayón needs Manuel Mendive and if the Devil would not allow us the metaphysical trick of exchanging him for her. In the Cuban afterlife, Belkis is the queen, and Mendive, if anything, an altar boy. But, according to taste, there are orishas and the Sikanese.

In Cuba artists have to express themselves in allegories, she says, because there may be censorship

Before Elizabeth Cerviño’s El Deshielo [The Thaw] the guide stops. Absorbed in front of the canvas, without sparing opinions, she explains the ideological caliber of the painting and its historical dimension. In Cuba, artists have to express themselves in allegories, she says, because there may be censorship. Tilda Swinton, until now half-dead, wakes up. “Das darf doch nicht wahr sein!” [That can’t be true!] she exclaims. “And critical artists, can they return to their country?” “Of course not!” answers the guide. “As long as you don’t attack the Government head-on, you can return, of course.”

Mein Gott, I think, and I vanish. Ciao, Chano, and thank you for the paintings. With citizens like that who needs counterintelligence? Dr. House says that everyone is lying and I hope he’s right. He also says that the truth is the truth, and that the idea of nation is one of the most stupid and dangerous that the human being has devised.

It’s now the end of the year and every act smells like a summary, a compendium of what has been experienced and an announcement of the future. Cuba is still the same, and according to House’s diagnosis, it will continue to be so, because people never change. Or the change is slow and sometimes life is not long enough to see it. Hope is a narcotic that my generation, unlike the previous ones, never smoked. I go back home and thaw out. My little thaw. Is there more homeland than this sofa?

Translated by Regina Anavy

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COLLABORATE WITH OUR WORKThe 14ymedio team is committed to practicing serious journalism that reflects Cuba’s reality in all its depth. Thank you for joining us on this long journey. We invite you to continue supporting us by becoming a member of 14ymedio now. Together we can continue transforming journalism in Cuba.

His Enormous Sword Affixed There Forever

Fifo. To me, you are the oldest of the old. And in a dictatorship, the leader’s expiration date is the closest thing there is to hope.

The voice of the dictator stays with the child forever. / Cubadebate

14ymedio bigger14ymedio, Xavier Carbonell, Salamanca, 1 December 2024 — Between sips of coffee, with the faith of a true believer, of a fanatic who has earned his place in paradise, a teacher of mine once told me, “You are incapable of having any feelings for the revolution because you’ve only ever known an old Fidel.” Not old, I thought, without interrupting my interlocutor’s mystical outburst. More like decrepit. A mummy, a zombie, the bogeyman, Nosferatu. The Prince of Darkness reduced to a hunchbacked spine. The translucent beard, the ratty hair, the dark circles of the faithful departed

“What does Fidel have, what does Fidel have?” asks the almost pornographic little ditty. A firm chest, an invincible strength, a frightful steeliness, an enormous sword thrust inside and affixed there forever (oh, for God’s sake, Manuel Navarro Luna!), immense tenderness, a fountainhead of tuberoses, a river of triggers running down his belt. He could teach Homer’s heroes a thing or two. And Don Quixote too! But he hates those rotten dollars (though nothing could be further from the truth). You already know what Fidel has.

But not for me, Fifo. To me, you are the oldest of the old. And in a dictatorship, the leader’s expiration date is the closest thing there is to hope. His sacred presence became ever more sacred until death separated him from the masses, which happened on my way to Varadero — a wonderfully surprising gift of a day — on November 25, 2016. “But there was one thing I couldn’t quite shake,” I told my gentle teacher: “the voice of Fidel.”

“Can a human voice cast a long, depressing shadow,” asked George Steiner in reference to Hitler

“Can a human voice cast a long, depressing shadow?” George Steiner asked himself in reference to Hitler. The philosopher’s childhood in Paris took place amid the soundtrack of the Führer’s speeches on the radio. The commanding diction and accompanying gestures — there are voices that are a whole body — defined the soundscape of his generation. Hitler wanted to sweep away an entire vocal culture — Freud, Mahler, Schoenberg, Wittgenstein — and no one can imagine a silent Hitler.

The voice of the dictator stays with the child forever, dear parents and pedagogues. While a young Steiner was listening in terror to Hitler, a young Umberto Ecco heard Mussolini declare war against France and Britain. For him, the Fascist diatribes were as much a part of his childhood as Flash continue reading

Gordon and Dick Tracy comic strips, the adventures of Sandokan and Professor Lidenbrock, music theory and drawing classes.

Our historic moment was a desperate attempt to abandon history, encapsulated in the voice of the dictator

In school, when hordes of students were forced to swear loyalty to “il duce,” those who came from anti-Fascist families always found ways to make fun of the oath. One of Ecco’s classmates would jokingly shout “Arturo!” instead of “Lo giuro!” (“I swear!”). How many times did we ourselves purposely mangle slogans during military preparation marches? One, two, three, four, eating shit and ruining shoes. First of May, horses’ day. April 1st, it’s the worst. No, the fun never ends, Carlos Puebla.

Revolution is a sense of the historical moment. Our historical moment was a desperate attempt to abandon history, encapsulated in the voice of the dictator. Díaz-Canel not only has no balls, he has no voice. His stutter, his inability to speak other languages, his fear of crowds, all disqualify him as a true leader. Neither did Raúl, who speaks with the nasal voice of a Cuban drunkard, a boozer, the family e’er-do-well. Raúl Modesto reminds us of Francisco Franco in some ways: the mustache, the low volume, the annoying, almost telephone-like ring. They all compensated for this by being relentlessly aggressive. Blood will calm any neurosis.

A sonorous museum of cruelty might include the the staccato voice of Hugo Chavez (“Ah, Mr. Danger, you messed with me, little bird.”); the cretinous voice of Nicolás Maduro (“Sometimes I realize that it is me when I look in the mirror.”); the fawning voice of Evo Morales (“Fidel has not fallen ill, he is just being repaired.”); the guttural voice of Adolf Hitler (“People have never been liberated with humanity and democracy”); the ranting voice of Kim (“Nuclear power is a symbol of sovereignty.”); the monotonous voice of Stalin (“I became a socialist in the seminary”); the tense voice of Putin (“Ukraine is an artificial state that Stalin willed into being.”); the pathetic voice of Ceausescu (“This morning we decided to increase the minimum wage.”).

And, of course, the voice of Fifo. (“I have never been nor am I now a communist… I am not a communist… I am a Marxist-Lenist and I will be a Marxist-Leninist till the day I die… I always admired Christ because he was the first communist… I apologize for having fallen.”)

Anyone who thinks that there are no believers left, that no one cries when a dictator dies, that no one sighs at his absence, is very wrong. Fidel has his mourners, perhaps thousands of them. On November 25, while I was celebrating these eight wonderful years of silence, a couple of “Granma” journalists reached the climax with a disturbing article about the leader.

“Fidel, whose umbilical chord was cut from two wombs — that of Lina, his biological mother — and Cuba, forged with his nation an alliance founded on love. He loved it like a father loves his children… Fidel literally opened his heart to danger and, in the midst of the rain, the mud and the roads destroyed by the combined power of the wind and the water, he was with his people in those distressing moments… The Commander’s love for his people is reborn in our president, [Miguel] Díaz-Canel.”

Honestly, who writes this stuff? And what psychiatrist are they seeing?

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COLLABORATE WITH OUR WORKThe 14ymedio team is committed to practicing serious journalism that reflects Cuba’s reality in all its depth. Thank you for joining us on this long journey. We invite you to continue supporting us by becoming a member of 14ymedio now. Together we can continue transforming journalism in Cuba.

Let’s See If He Has Any

Cuban chess, according to the official press, is played under the effects of ministerial tyranny, scarcity, mental poverty and false mass appeal.

Fidel Castro wrote crookedly on straight lines, but massive chess, a Moscow strategy, was not such a bad idea. / Radio Trinidad

14ymedio bigger14ymedio, Xavier Carbonell, Salamanca, 20 October 2024 — Salamanca/ Fidel Castro wanted to popularize cattle raising, and the cow ended up becoming an animal as remote and sacred as the bison of Altamira. He wanted to popularize communist militancy, and today – let’s continue with the cattle metaphor – the stampede of leaders is so ferocious that it would annihilate Mufasa again. It is not surprising, therefore, that the popularization of chess had disastrous results. The problem is never Fidel, the faithful will say, but the popularization. But the masses are nothing without their chief popularizer, and as in homes where there is a naughty child, in Cuba he is always the material, formal, efficient and final cause.

To make things easier, let’s say that, like Mephistopheles, Fidel wrote crookedly on straight lines – poor Jesuit schoolboy, more fond of basketball than of the pencil – and that mass chess, a Moscow strategy, was not such a bad idea. It is impossible for all Cubans to be good chess players, but it was not bad that, from childhood, we knew how to defend ourselves on the board. Why? I don’t know, perhaps to demonstrate the intellectual superiority of the infans sovieticus, larva of the bright future.

Here, however, there is very little future and almost no megawatts to enlighten us.

Here, however, is very little future and almost no megawatts to enlighten us. The official press has just published figures on the situation of school chess that must have irritated – if he saw them – Leontxo García, the legendary columnist of El País. The sports media that covered his visit to Cuba in 2022 said that the venerable professor had been “fascinated” by the talent of the players and had asked that the Island be transformed into a “leading country” in terms of educational chess. But we already know that with visitors you have to be polite, offer them coffee and take them to the Hotel Nacional. Leontxo left happy, or so says the State newspaper Granma. continue reading

A member of Randy Alonso’s dream team – those boys from Cubadebate who seduce Ana de Armas and write a pamphlet against the blockade – had the naivety to do his job well and survey 658,771 students and 6,993 teachers. Only 41% of the children and 51% of their teachers know how to play chess. They play “to kill boredom,” say the brave pioneers interviewed. They play very little because there are no pieces or boards. They play badly, under the effects of the “lack of implements” – the Chinese have not sent “pieces” since the pandemic – of the ministerial trick, of scarcity, of mental poverty, of unleavened masses.

In the Third Improvement, chess will not be a subject, as Fidel and Che and other photogenic assassins dreamed.

Things are not going to improve, little Capablancas. In the umpteenth indoctrination plan of the Ministry of Education – what in Mordor they call the Third Improvement – ​​chess will no longer be a subject, as Fidel and Che and other photogenic assassins, who loved to pose in front of the chessboard, dreamed of. It will be, says the national methodologist of Physical Education, a mere “complementary activity.” And every pioneer knows what that means: dancing and enjoying the extracurricular symphony.

The methodologist has ideas whose brilliance should not be wasted by the Electric Union. Possessed of a calm desperation, she calls on teachers “with knowledge” of the game to “facilitate this practice.” She intends to “assess with the National Chess Commissioner to see if he has some support that we could put on computers or on the same phones so that children can play.” There is so much Cubanness, so much revolution in that “let’s see if he has” that it should be the title of our next national anthem.

Like any boy educated under the Battle of Ideas, I learned to play chess as a child. I was taught – by my grandparents, not by my teachers – to be proud of Capablanca, The Machine, and I grew up with the conviction that he was the best chess player in the world. Americans could say the same about Bobby Fischer and the Russians about Spassky or Karpov. But Fischer was a madman and Karpov is Putin’s man – although he criticized him about Ukraine – as he was before the Central Committee. Capablanca was a gentleman. You only have to look at his photos, his classic serenity in front of the board. Always attentive to the pieces, always with a Buddhist smile, to the dismay of his adversaries.

Metaphors need food and electricity, decency and life, and without that there is no head, and therefore no chess.

There has never been another, and the one who came closest – Leinier Domínguez – does not even appear in the newspapers of his country. The country that has no boards or pieces, and where people used to play in the middle of a blackout, sitting on the curb of the sidewalk, illuminated by a small flashlight. Those night games were a metaphor for something, but metaphors also need food and electricity, decency and life, and without that there is no head, and therefore no chess.

You’ll find it hard to believe, Leontxo, that there was so much deterioration in Capablanca’s country, where Fischer and Korchnoi and Tal and Petrosian played. However, those of us who left have some consolation. It’s the same consolation that Nabokov felt when he escaped from Sebastopol on a Greek ship, with the Soviet firefight in the background. There, in front of him and with his back to the horror, were his father and a broken chess board. The bishop had lost his head, the rook was a poker chip. The game was unforgettable. He who flees always tries to do so with a nervous smile, with memory, with a little hope. Let’s see if he has any.

See also: chess 

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COLLABORATE WITH OUR WORKThe 14ymedio team is committed to practicing serious journalism that reflects Cuba’s reality in all its depth. Thank you for joining us on this long journey. We invite you to continue supporting us by becoming a member of 14ymedio now. Together we can continue transforming journalism in Cuba.

A Wannabe of Science

For a long time science was conducted in the field notebook – with pencils and watercolours – as well as with the microscope.

One of the ’anthomedusae’ drawn by Ernst Haeckel, which today illustrate the Polish writer Stanisław Lem’s books, published by Impedimenta / Kunstformen der Natur (Artforms in Nature)

14ymedio bigger14ymedio, Xavier Carbonell, 17 November 2024 – Salamanca. To draw an object is to understand it. I leave the house with Faber-Castell pencils, a case of Staedtler felt pens and a hard-backed notebook in my jacket pocket. The pencil line forms quickly and shakily. It’s cold. Hardship can determine style: disjointed, austere, or brief – all virtues which one would want to have also for writing. The world moves on quickly and one wants to keep something of it. Snails, spiders, branches, puddles, voices.

To categorise is to capture; to draw is to hunt. “Regrets: not having continued to draw”, wrote George Steiner, “with charcoal, pastels and ink, in order to illustrate some of my own books. The hand can speak truths and happinesses that language is incapable of articulating”.

For a long time science was conducted in the field notebook – with pencils and watercolours – as well as with the microscope. The German naturalist Ernst Haeckel, whose work is as electrifying as the books of Darwin or Humboldt, is the best example. Better known as an artist than as a zoologist, his prints of jellyfish, radiolarias and cephalopods still make you dizzy. They make you dizzy because they seem to be alive and moving beyond the page. continue reading

Better known as an artist than as a zoologist, his prints of jellyfish, radiolarias and cephalopods still make you dizzy

Haeckel called his subjects enigmas of the universe, wonders of life, artforms of nature. Tentacles, spirals, membranes, strange multicoloured clusters, translucent, viscous and retractable. He dreamt of defining a complete morphology of these organisms. After immersing himself off the beaches of Naples and Sicily and investigating the composition of the Mediterranean waters, he painted some 1,000 images. He moved from art to biology and from biology to theology. He claimed to have defined God as a gaseous vertebrate.

Art, science and writing have one necessity in common: imagination. The scientist Carlo Rovelli says that science is, above all else, a visionary activity, and as such it requires sensitivity. Severo Sarduy, however, warns that: “it is possible that, when confronted with science, a writer is never much more than a wannabe”.

Antonio Parra was, to put it like that, our Haeckel, the man who united science and imagination. Born in Portugal in 1739, he arrived in Cuba as part of an infantry regiment after the English had taken Havana. He settled, left the army, and married a creole girl. In 1787 he submitted for publication one (and perhaps the most celebrated) of the 300 Cuban books that still survive from the eighteenth century, and which someone has called ’our incunables’.

’A Description of Different Types of Natural History, Most of them Marine Life’, with 75 copper engraved plates – in colour in some editions – was the first ever scientific work written on the island. If the military engravings of Dominic Serres and Philip Orsbridge mark a new way of seeing Cuba, or at least Havana, then with his Book of Fishes we have a visual discovery of its nature. The eighteenth century, Lezama explains, “shows us the character of Cuba”.

Science was born on the island through thought, drawing and the desire for exploration. Parra doesn’t write a scientific work, but a catalogue, a guide for his cabinet of curiosities. What curiosities? “The multitude of remarkable works of nature that abound on the island of Cuba and in the seas that surround it – in the the three kingdoms of animal, vegetable and mineral – all inspired in me, from the very first moment I set foot there, a great desire to put together a collection”.

With a “remarkable respect” for his adoptive country, Parra, enraptured, describes the nature of the tropics

With a “remarkable respect” for his adoptive country, Parra, enraptured, describes the nature of the tropics. He preserved and varnished specimens of the creatures that interested him, like Haeckel, the most – fish and marine creatures. He was, he says, praised for this work by some of his friends and this gave him encouragement. After a year the collection had grown significantly, and, despite a “scarcity of engravers”, Parra got his son to illustrate the book. The boy posessed, says the father with some irony, “a somewhat superficial style of drawing”, but he was nevertheless up to the job. He may perhaps have had some help, because the 75 plates are not the work of a beginner.

This improvised naturalist explained all of this to no less than the King of Spain himself, to whom he sent various pieces from his collection. With little preamble, the creatures begin to line up: some of his descriptions are poetical, others are almost tender – one fish has “two little arms, from which come two fins, like hands”.  Another “eats with some suspicion”.  The devil fish has stilettos in the form of horns, “whose use we don’t yet understand”.

There are [amongst others] wreckfish, bonefish, swordfish, hawkshead turtles, loggerhead turtles, furry and toothy crabs, teleost fish, prickly prawns, the mother of all snails: a kind of beehive that engenders an infinite number of molluscs, and a worm that’s a nightmare worthy of the planet Solaris…

Parra ended up being ignored by the King, who denied him Spanish citizenship. He had collected tropical seeds for sowing in Madrid and Aranjuez and had become a celebrity in illustrious circles on the peninsular, but even in the eyes of his admirers he was little more than a mere empiricist, an improviser, a mere artisan of curiosities. No more, as Sarduy would say, than a wannabe.

Translated by Ricardo Recluso

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COLLABORATE WITH OUR WORKThe 14ymedio team is committed to practicing serious journalism that reflects Cuba’s reality in all its depth. Thank you for joining us on this long journey. We invite you to continue supporting us by becoming a member of 14ymedio now. Together we can continue transforming journalism in Cuba.

Canadian Archaeologists Unravel the Mysteries of the Taínos of Los Buchillones in Cuba

The figures, carved from guayacán and ebony, were created between the 13th and 17th centuries

Los Buchillones is also the most significant archaeological site of Indo-Cuban art

14ymedio bigger14ymedio, Xavier Carbonell, Salamanca, 26 October 2024 — It took almost 30 years for more than 150 pieces of indigenous art from the Los Buchillones site, in Ciego de Ávila, to be described and dated correctly by archaeologists. The merit, however, does not really go to the historians of the Island but to the University of Toronto, Canada, and the Royal Ontario Museum, who were in charge of the scientific study of the figures.

Despite the importance of the discovery, which greatly enriches the vision of pre-Columbian Cuba, the official press has hardly mentioned it. Last Thursday, however, ’Invasor’ explained the controversy over the pieces found in 1995 in Los Buchillones, which had been incorrectly attributed to “groups of farmers and ceramicists.”

Thanks to the scientists of the Isotrace university laboratory, it is now known that the figures, crafted in guayacán [lancewood] and ebony, were created between the 13th and 17th centuries of our era, more precisely between 1220 and 1690; the community remained there after the Spanish Conquest. That, the specialists add, was the “peak moment for ceramics.”

Nor were they created, as was thought, in Los Buchillones, but rather in another settlement located 500 meters from there, in an old salt flat known as La Laguna. This was suspected by Cuban scholars and fans of archeology, explains ’Invasor,’ since many of the pieces had marks that showed that they had been taken from the bottom of the sea or a river. continue reading

As for the typology of the figures, they correspond to the artistic forms that are known from the Tainos. They are ’cemíes’ – gods, ’dujos’ or ceremonial stools, spatulas and trays. Few of the Greater Antilles have so many representative pieces of indigenous art, and in the Cuban context, it also marks a milestone: Los Buchillones is the most significant archaeological site of Indo-Cuban art.

Ebony bowl found in the deposit / Patrimonio Ciega de Ávila / Facebook

Of the sculptures, eight stand out, whose characteristics help to better understand the imaginary and everyday life of the Tainos. They are dark in color, carved in guayacán and ebony wood, whose height ranges between 10.5 (4.1 inches) and 34 centimeters (13.4 inches). You can see in some of them the head and limbs – with emphasis on the male and female genitals – of a divinity, and others are in the form of sexless animals.

They are, judging by their shape and careful symmetry, idols linked to fertility, and that is the name that the most remarkable sculpture has received, 18 centimeters (7.1 inches) high, and of which ’Invasor’ provided a sketch. In addition to sexual symbolism, it contains elements – the representation of a skeleton and a kind of halo, in the manner of Catholic saints – that refer to the passage from life to death and to the notion of time that the Taínos possessed.

It is believed that the vases and bowls also have a ritual character and were used by the Taínos in their religious ceremonies. According to ’Invasor,’ the Canadian specialists recommended “developing a stylistic study of these objects” and continuing the investigation, headed by Cuban archaeologist Jorge A. Calvera Rosés.

Only fragments of Cuba’s indigenous past remain. The few archaeological studies that have been published in the country have given little clarity about the different groups that formed the Indo-Cuban area, and most Cubans have erroneous or outdated notions about their lives, customs and rituals.

A decisive step to understand the religion of the Taínos was taken, in 1947, by the Cuban ethnologist and polygrapher Fernando Ortiz with his book, ’El huracán, su mitología y sus símbolos (The Hurricane, its Mythology and Symbols). Published by the Economic Culture Fund and impossible to obtain in the the Island’s bookstores – it is rare, even in the libraries – Ortiz’s meticulous study of several pieces similar to those found in Los Buchillones allowed us to understand the sacred universe of the Taínos.

Ortiz’s meticulous study of several similar pieces allowed us to understand the sacred universe of the Taínos / Patrimonio Ciego de Ávila / Facebook

Ortiz focused his research on a set of enigmatic sculptures, formed by a human trunk with a head and another creature in its chest with arms crossed in an X. Although the shapes of the “curious figurines” were variable, these elements were the common factor and pointed to a sacred conception of the hurricane, the Father of Winds for the Taínos.

His conclusion was that the idol of the hurricane was “the most typical figure in Cuba,” since he had not found specimens on any other Caribbean island. To explain it, he composed a work that seeks the traces of the cult of the hurricane from Hindu swastikas to Andalusian dances, describing a mythical itinerary practically virgin in Cuban historical studies.

Despite the shortcomings, the field of Indo-Cuban studies offers the researcher a terrain full of novelties and a whole bibliography of pioneers such as Ortiz, who in his time reached the height of classical mythological studies like James Frazer and Joseph Campbell. His personal collection, absorbed – with little care – by the National Library and other state institutions, is a good starting point for the researcher.

“Every archaeological object is in itself a search for an intelligible expression. It is a dead and unearthed being to which its name and life must be returned,” Ortiz then said, before, effectively, giving meaning to his discovery. The more than 150 pieces of Los Buchillones continue, as predicted 100 years ago by Ortiz, in search of someone who knows how to speak in their “own language.”

Translated by Regina Anavy

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COLLABORATE WITH OUR WORKThe 14ymedio team is committed to practicing serious journalism that reflects Cuba’s reality in all its depth. Thank you for joining us on this long journey. We invite you to continue supporting us by becoming a member of 14ymedio now. Together we can continue transforming journalism in Cuba.

For the Cuban Mind, Terse Questions

’Still life with a pig’s head’, painted in 1968 by Fernando Botero / CC

14ymedio bigger14ymedio, Xavier Carbonell, Salamanca, 6 October 2024 — Yes, I also got carried away by nostalgia and went to a Cuban restaurant in Madrid. I’m not going to say which one, because the life of an emigrant is hard, and setting up a business – a pitiful one, but I’m getting ahead of myself – is already quite indigestible. But a fish dies by its mouth and so did I. In general, since I arrived in this country I have led a fairly private life. I have gotten together with few Cubans, more out of my unfriendliness than my lack of patriotism, because abroad there is a taste for the national junk that I fight against like hell.

I will never forget that waiter who, idiotic and melancholic, wanted me to give him a box of Ramón Allones cigars that I had brought from the Island. They were limited edition cigars, in green cedar packaging, a farewell gift – I would never have been able to pay for those jewels – the last one of which I burned down a few weeks ago. But look, the lad didn’t want to smoke. He didn’t tolerate the taste or smell, but he inhaled the butt. He wanted the box, the ark of the alliance, to deposit the remains of his Cubanness. I promised him that I would send it to him as soon as I had a chance.

Everyone knows that Madrid is the new Miami. The lycras and flip-flops, the despicable “asere qué bolá” (whasup, dude?) that any Cuban offers as a password of origin, the watering hole and the gossip, have taken possession of Chamberí, Puerta del Sol and Barajas. In the clueless Spanish imagination, Cuba was at first a land of promise, then a communist paradise and now – as in Dian Fossey’s famous book – a good place to have a mojito among gorillas. My newly arrived compatriots fervently cultivate their image of the noble savage, or at least the savage part. They change country, but not what’s inside their heads. continue reading

I paid the price of being waited on in my accent and enjoyed tiny portions: socialist, regulated by the ration book

It is not illogical, therefore, that if someone opens a Cuban restaurant in Madrid, they proceed to recreate our misery on a gastronomic scale. I was – unpleasant journey in time and space – in a Havana restaurant, in an inn with peeling walls, Cuban bric-a-brac, photos of the Capitolio and el Morro. I paid the price of being waited on in my accent, I waited in vain for a glass for the beer – Crystal, packaged in Holguín! – and I enjoyed tiny portions: socialist, regulated by the ration book.

Of course I deserved it. A few blocks away there were two Asturian restaurants where I would have felt at home. Not because Asturias is for me a gastronomic homeland – which it almost is – but because a well-made stew of beans, pork and other ingredients will always remind a Cuban of his origins; a slice of quince with cheese or a rice pudding, grandma’s desserts; a grape liqueur with a cigar, the perfect ending to a lunch.

There was something sumptuous and generous in the Creole, something that the Regime castrated and that the exile should have preserved. Why do Cubans travel to Spain asking for hamburgers and Coca-Cola? Why have they been saving to buy a car the first year when there is so little need here? Why the rush to forget the best of the country and cultivate the most rude, the vulgarity inherent in Castroism, the impudencence of the “New Man“?

I was looking for an experience that would bring me closer to my past, and they made the present bitter

That Madrid restaurant was a perfect summary of all that. Dishes, the basics: tasteless stews, steak, tostones, dry congrí. I was looking for an experience that would bring me closer to my past, and they made the present bitter. It’s useless to ask for explanations or hit the table – plastic, of course, no stools – with your fists. There it was the Government’s fault; whose is it here? To the “lacón,*” laconic questions, Lezama would say.

Where can Cuba find itself? For a long time I thought it was in books, but looking for a country in the library, without a real experience, is an exercise in archaeology. A bolero is heard and forgotten; a cigar is smoked; a language is used; a son lives not on the Island that his parents abandoned but on another continent, under its flag.

I don’t think the Cuban, in his usual light-heartedness, will notice that this gentleness now means very little. Does anyone care? Not me; now you know. Over time one finds grace for oneself if not elsewhere. If I went back, I would be a stranger. If I stay here, there will always be an air of provisionality wherever I am. Almost an act of cheap magic, a snap of the fingers, and I left, as I vanished from that Cuban restaurant in Madrid. Wasn’t that what Martí was referring to before pronouncing, in the swamp, his best spell? “I know how to disappear.” And he did.

*Translator’s note: A “lacón” is a pig’s head; hence, the play on words.

Translated by Regina Anavy

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COLLABORATE WITH OUR WORKThe 14ymedio team is committed to practicing serious journalism that reflects Cuba’s reality in all its depth. Thank you for joining us on this long journey. We invite you to continue supporting us by becoming a member of 14ymedio now. Together we can continue transforming journalism in Cuba.