At this mecca of popular commerce in Havana, you can find everything, including the buying and selling of dollars.
14ymedio, Darío Hernández, Havana, 26 September 2025 — “Water!” was heard with unusual frequency this Wednesday at La Cuevita, among a crowd of self-employed workers, clandestine vendors, and desperate customers. It wasn’t a shout announcing drinks or a storm warning, but rather the code word used all over Cuba to let people know that the police are on the move. Authorities, who usually turn a blind eye to irregularities in these spaces, decided this time to close the place for a month. The official reason: “to carry out repairs,” some residents told this newspaper.
La Cuevita is the mecca of popular commerce in San Miguel del Padrón, Havana. There, you can find everything from food, hygiene products, clothing, and household appliances to toys, medicines, and currency exchange. Merchandise arrives via a variety of channels, including mules, middlemen, or diversions from state channels, generating income for both self-employed workers and those operating without a license.
So, despite the closure order, few people were willing to leave. Vendors relocated to nearby streets and in the doorways of neighboring houses.
So, despite the closure order, few people were willing to leave. The vendors relocated to nearby streets and the doorways of neighboring houses. “We need to eat,” exclaimed an undocumented vendor as she hurriedly gathered her wares as the uniformed officers passed by. Minutes later, she set up her stall again in the same place.
The history of La Cuevita dates back to the Special Period and has been strengthened by the economic reforms of recent years. It emerged as a response to chronic shortages and the need to obtain goods in foreign currency, and so became a crucial supply point for Havana residents and buyers from other provinces.
This Wednesday, however, the place looked more chaotic than ever. Stalls crowded in front of homes, food vendors stood right next to stinking garbage dumps, open sacks of rice mingled with the mud, and a chorus of shouts from anxiousv endors
The closure coincides with the 4th National Crime Prevention and Response Exercise, which includes patrols, “prophylactic” meetings with so-called “potential offenders,” and social control measures. In addition to the police, students, workers, and Party activists are participating. Previous exercises have not restored order to the streets, but they have swelled the state coffers with money from fines and confiscations.
“There aren’t enough police to get so many people out,” said a vender selling stockings and underwear, who ran for cover upon hearing the alarm. Minutes later, seeing the officer riding away on his motorcycle, he returned to his stall and added: “This is what the town lives on; they can’t close it down.”
Some call these informal markets that exist throughout the island “candonga,” a term that came from Angola with the Cubans who went to war in the 1970s and 1980s. But today’s battle is different: putting food on the table, shoes on children’s feet, and earning enough money to survive for a month, something no state salary guarantees.
The police close La Cuevita, but vendors and customers reopen it.
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