14ymedio, Julio César Contreras, Cienfuegos 24 August 24, 2024 — Upon entering Plaza del Mercado (Market Square), located on Santa Cruz Street in Cienfuegos, one is confronted with a sad, neglected space. In addition to the usual unsanitary conditions, which extend even to the way food is handled, there are the often empty shelves. This is not due to a scarcity of food, though that is indeed in short supply, but because of constant inspections and government actions that have scared away vendors.
“The truth is that what little there is here is of very poor quality,” says Anselmo, a 73-year-old retiree from Cienfuegos. He points to bruised avocados arranged haphazardly on a counter. “They’re asking 60, 70 and even 80 pesos for them but I am not going spend money on something I can’t use,” he says.
“I came to see if they had anything, knowing that there’s not much to buy here, but I didn’t expect it all to be so bare,” Anselmo complains. Most of what little the province gets, he points out, officials allocate to the Calzada open-air market, which is held once a week. At the moment, the only thing for sale at Market Square is rice for 170 pesos a pound and black beans for 320. “You have to be watch the scales very closely because they’re only too happy to shortchange you a few ounces,” he warns.
Anselmo does not give up. After running his finger through the bills in his wallet, one of the salesmen with whom he has “done business” on occasion approaches him. “Go see the Chinese guy in the house on the corner. He has what you’re looking for. With all the recent inspections, we’ve had to move the ’big ticket’ items to other locations. This here is the window dressing. It’s just a front,” the salesman tells him.
“If the state starts imposing price controls,” warns the salesman,” we’ll take our things and leave if that’s what it takes to stay in business. Unless things change, the place will stay like this: empty.”
A blank menu at the local cafe marks the entrance to Market Square. At 120 pesos apiece, a batch of stale pizzas is the only product for sale. “I wouldn’t eat one even if they were giving it away for free,” says Anselmo.
Anselmo leaves the market but not before announcing, “You have to stiffen your spine or the prices will scare you.” In contrast to the deserted meat counter at Market Square, the “Chinese guy” has fresh hams, pork shoulders and even pig livers. Red meat is also available to “trusted customers” who will not tip off authorities.
Having purchased three pounds of pork loin and a pound-and-a-half of pork pieces, Anselmo continues his journey in search of food. “Now it’s off to the farmers market, where the prices are also steep,” he says worriedly.
According to Anselmo, one viable option might to buy directly from farmers, who are also trying to avoid selling what they produce to the state. Many prefer to handle retail sales themselves while others sell to pushcart vendors or other retailers, who are willing to offer them a higher price. “If you deal directly with the farmers, you get a better, fresher product. The problem is transportation. Whatever you save on food costs you spend on travel costs,” he reasons.
After making a stop at the farmers market, Anselmo returns home with two plastic bags that cost him ten pesos. One is for meat, the other for some guavas and a “not too bruised” avocado. Though his total bill comes to more than a thousand pesos, he is disappointed “[It] is not even enough for a proper meal, much less for my 74th birthday party.”
____________
COLLABORATE WITH OUR WORK: The 14ymedio team is committed to practicing serious journalism that reflects Cuba’s reality in all its depth. Thank you for joining us on this long journey. We invite you to continue supporting us by becoming a member of 14ymedio now. Together we can continue transforming journalism in Cuba.
