14ymedio, Julio César Contreras, Cienfuegos, 29 September 2024 — The monotony in the streets of Cienfuegos after three in the afternoon would have been unimaginable a few years ago. The corners and parks, which were filled with children playing soccer and adults playing dominoes, remain empty this Saturday. Procedures and purchases are carried out before noon, and later, when the city goes dark, only beggars and stray dogs remain on the streets.
“I have lived in this city for 71 years, and I’ve never seen it as dead as I do now. People speak ill of the era of capitalism in Cuba, but before, on this same street, one could eat and drink what he wanted,” says Julio, an old man who has paid 20 pesos for a small cup of coffee on the outskirts of the El Español hotel. “This cup is the size of a pea with water, but retirement doesn’t give me enough to pay for a real coffee.”
Julio complains that, as soon as it’s noon, even the State shops close. As he explains, the variety of entertainment options in the city is zero, and if there were any, it is likely that people wouldn’t be able to afford them. Olivia accompanies the old man, whose visit to the office of the national telecommunications company Etecsa – in the middle of working hours – was fruitless. “These people close at 4:00 in the afternoon, and on Saturdays they don’t open until 11:30 in the morning. With my work schedule it’s impossible for me to take care of any business with them,” he emphasizes.
According to Olivia, until some time ago, institutions were still open at 7:00 p.m., but the pandemic was the ideal pretext to restrict working hours and make life even more difficult for the people of Cienfuegos.
“It’s already impossible to go out at night because of the blackouts and the total lack of public transport. Added to that are the few cultural options and the very high price of any product. You can’t even go out for a walk with your family,” the woman reports.
Julio knows very well what Olivia is talking about. “In my time people went to dance, shared some time at the Casa de la Música or had fun in the Tropisur cabaret. If you were bored, you took a walk around the Jagua hotel or any recreational center in Punta Gorda. Today the only thing we can do is remember that time,” he says.
Gabriela, Julio’s granddaughter, who attends university, is not interested in the activities her grandfather did in his youth. However, she shares the feeling that time moves slowly and with nothing interesting to do. “What am I going to do? Sit in El Prado until they turn on the power at dawn? Go out on a Sunday to find everything closed and the street empty? Expose myself to being assaulted and robbed in the middle of the darkness of the boardwalk? That’s why I prefer to stay home,” she says.
At the age of 21, the young woman hopes to be able to leave Cuba soon with the US Humanitarian Parole Program that her father arranged for her from the United States. “When I leave I’m going to take advantage of the time and go to the movies, which I’ve never done, and to discos and amusement parks. But while I’m here, it’s better to entertain myself on my cell phone,” she says.
Gabriela’s opinion is shared by many Cienfuegeros, who leave the streets as soon as the sun goes down. “If you go to an ATM to withdraw cash, there is no money. If you want to have a soft drink, it’s hot. There is such great negativity and incompetence that coexistence is impossible,” Gabriela complains, with the uncertainty of not knowing how she will get home, near the Tulipán neighborhood.
Residents remember when the young people – and not so young – woke up walking through El Prado, after having spent the whole night in a nightclub or on the boardwalk, sharing with friends. Gone are the concerts at the Terry Theater, the gatherings in the museums and the troubadour clubs in cozy places. While the official speech celebrates the radiant life of the city, anyone out at night will find only a barking stray dog.
Translated by Regina Anavy
____________
COLLABORATE WITH OUR WORK: The 14ymedio team is committed to practicing serious journalism that reflects Cuba’s reality in all its depth. Thank you for joining us on this long journey. We invite you to continue supporting us by becoming a member of 14ymedio now. Together we can continue transforming journalism in Cuba.
